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Mosfellsbær is possibly the strangest town in Iceland. Located just north of Reykjavík with a population of approximately 9000, it is a sleepy and quiet community where nothing ever seems to happen. It doesn't have a shopping street, a buzzing centre with restaurants and cafés, nor a vibrant nightlife. But, year after year, it is voted the best place to live in Iceland. Mosfellsbær is the town where the psychiatrist Lára Halla Maack finally settled in a beautiful yellow house with a big, colourful garden where she cultivates her roses. Raised in Denmark until the age of twelve, during an era when women were homemakers, Lára Halla was happy to skip three school years. When she was 8, again when she was 10 and, finally at 12 years of age. "My parents were broad-minded enough to realize my brothers, and I wouldn't learn anything of worth at school," says Lára Halla. "Instead we would pick apples and give to the other kids during their breaks. Then we would climb our three-storey house and jump from the roof, hanging on to a parasol. It was a huge parasol to slow us down. We were just ordinary, out-of-control Icelandic children.” From pranks to protests After spending some years in Iceland, this time attending school, Lára Halla moved to California to study psychology. "It was an excellent college and quite posh. We even had waiters serving our tables. It was during the middle of the Vietnam protest era and, true to form, I attended all protests in the Oakland area. It was part of a thrill because I was terrified. There were soldiers placed on every street corner, the atmosphere had a feeling of semi-terrorism with constant news of murders. But, marching with the millions protesting the Vietnam War, was a terrific experience that left a life-long impact on me. I also loved the college with its broad syllabi. Apart from psychology I got to take courses in music analysis and art history. It changed my listening and observation skills forever. During my year in California, I came to realize I'd never known the difference between psychology and psychiatry. What I wanted to do was psychiatry. So, I returned to Iceland to study medicine. Later I moved to the UK for my chosen field of study, psychiatry." Back home After completing her psychiatry studies where she specialized in child psychiatry and forensic psychiatry, Lára Halla decided to return home. She'd spent eight years in the UK and didn't find Iceland welcoming at all. "In my field we talk about the "glass roof." In the UK, when you have reached a certain professional seniority it disappears. In Iceland, it doesn't. Instead, you have to strive and struggle. You are nothing, you don't know anything and are quite worthless until you have proven yourself. To add to the problem, returning home fills one with a feeling of worthlessness. You see, in Iceland, it is of the utmost importance to have witnessed history in the making. It relates to both personal and impersonal matters. It can relate to as insignificant matters as a street being asphalted. You were away and didn't know who said what, why and when. Everything is history in Iceland. If you were away, you are not part of it. You missed out on "everything." Coming home and clashing with this atmosphere was simply too much. I took a U-turn back to England. Two years later though Lára Halla was back in Iceland and this time for good. She started working at the Landspítalinn, University Hospital, at the psychiatric ward's alcoholic unit. There she counted herself lucky to get an opportunity to coach medical students. Though not a lecturer at the University, she got to impact their training on the job – and her contribution was much appreciated. And, she liked her job. The city centre During this period in her life, Lára Halla lived in the centre of Reykjavík in a tiny house with an asphalted lot being used as a car park. She had the asphalt removed and in its place created a garden. "Gardening runs in the family," says Lára Halla. "My mother loved plants and flowers, both indoors and outdoors. She spent a lot of time tending to her gardens, and I would join her at any given opportunity. All my aunts and cousins were the same." Lára Halla's house in the city centre was a mere few steps from the National Theatre and the Opera House. On the spur of a moment, she would decide to attend a performance. Obtaining a single ticket at the last minute was always an option. The centre seemed to be the perfect setting for a perfect lifestyle for Lara Halla. Still, in the year 2000 she upped and moved to Mosfellsbær. Why? The dedicated hoarders "Well, my husband and I are both dedicated hoarders. The house in the centre of Reykjavík was too small to accommodate all our stuff. We decided to search for a new house. Altogether we looked at 99 houses, spanning the area from Keflavík to Kjalarnes. Like true hoarders, we created a file for our search, documenting pros and cons. My husband wanted a house with a view. I didn't understand why but decided I had to adapt to being a broad-minded wife. He is English and has his English standards and taste. My taste is more central Europe, rather old fashioned. This house was number 99, and it ticked all our boxes. It is a beautiful house with large windows in every direction. It had a wonderful view that, by the way, has disappeared due to the trees in the neighbourhood. They have grown about 15 meters since we moved in. As we didn't care which part of the larger Reykjavík area we would end up in, we realized this house ticked all our boxes – and it was large enough to accommodate all our stuff. We didn't need to throw anything away. We love living here in Mosfellsbær. Being cradled in the bosom of Mount Esja defies words. Reykjavík has a tendency to claim Esja as their mountain, but it is ours. We can practically touch it.” Tropical climate “Mosfellsbær has changed a lot in fifteen years. The man-made environment has improved immensely. Nowadays we have beautiful playgrounds, small bridges crossing banks and rivers, bird observation shelters. When we moved here, we realized the whole area was great for outdoors recreations. Today, it is even much better. You can go hiking from your doorstep. Into valleys and mountains, for miles and miles. Even a short stroll takes you into beautiful nature with exquisite flora and marvelous bird-life. Moving here required a change in lifestyle. Nowadays, if I want to go to the theatre or the opera, I have to plan for it. Instead, I get to live in an environment where everything can be turned into a fairy tale when my grandchildren come to visit. And then, there is my garden. My house is located on a hillside. And, curiously enough this hillside, facing south is some tropical pool. You can grow just about anything here. I had never cultivated roses before moving here. When I realized how tropical the climate was in my garden, I decided to try for the roses. I love their colours, their fragrance and beauty. My roses have thrived in my garden. They are a great joy to me.

Located on Bankastræti in downtown Reykjavík—just a few minutes walk from Harpa Concert Hall, Hallgrímskirkja, and Tjörnin (the city pond)—Loft Hostel is a cozy, multi-story hotel complete with a café, bar, and a rooftop terrace that offers stunning views of the city and the northern lights during the winter months. For locals, the hostel is also a popular venue for intimate concerts and poetry readings, as well as small social events that demand a laidback vibe and atmosphere. We found Matthew Morgan, a Londoner who decided to make a stopover trip in Iceland, relaxing in the Loft Hostel café shortly after he competed in a local gingerbread-decorating contest to welcome in the holiday season. Although he arrived in Reykjavík during the heart of winter, Matthew quickly realized that Iceland is a special place that definitely lives up to its hype. A Stormy Arrival Matthew spent most of his first night in Reykjavík shuddered indoors due to an uncharacteristically strong winter storm, but he did not let that deter him from enjoying himself and catching up on some rest and relaxation. “I’m travelling via Iceland to go to Canada, but I decided to take a three-day stopover here,” he explains of his travel itinerary. “I’m travelling for two months, so this is part of a long vacation…I intended yesterday to see the northern lights, but we were told not to leave the building due to the windy weather!” Although the storm put a temporary damper on his plans, Matthew was surprised by one aspect of the weather: “I actually haven’t been that cold since I’ve been here. I’ve dressed for the weather, and I’ve felt perfectly fine.” Matthew intends to hit some of Iceland’s hottest tourist destinations before he departs for Canada, taking in as much as he can of the country’s gorgeous landscape and scenery. Golden Circle tour tomorrow “I’m going on a Golden Circle tour tomorrow, followed by a northern lights excursion, and then I’m going to stop at the Blue Lagoon on the way to the airport,” he explains. “It’s a shame that it’s been so cloudy, but from what I’ve seen so far, the landscape is absolutely beautiful.” Matthew’s travels will take him not only to see the spectacular waterfall Gullfoss but also to experience Þingvellir, Iceland’s glorious national park, where the first meeting of the nation’s parliament, known as the Alþingi, took place over a millennium ago. One of the highpoints of Matthew’s stay has been interacting with the locals while spending time unwinding after his plane flights. When asked about his conversations with Icelanders, he jokingly says, “They’re so rude!” before adding “I would definitely recommend booking a flight to Iceland. So far I’ve really enjoyed my stay. The people are really lovely and unbelievably friendly.” In Search of Vegetarian Cuisine A prolific voice actor, who has done voiceover work for Sky News, BBC, and various other media companies in Britain, Matthew has noticed something quite interesting about Iceland’s hardy cuisine during his stay. “I’m a vegetarian and tried to order a vegetarian hot dog, which exists in a lot of places like the U.S. and Canada, but not here apparently,” he explains. Due to Iceland’s harsh environment and cold climate, meat dishes, mostly fish and lamb, have dominated the Icelandic diet for centuries. However, slowly but surely, vegetarian options are catching on in Reykjavík, with popular restaurants like Gló and Fresco offering a range of vegetable-focused options for vegetarian or health-conscious travelers. All in all, after a night on the town and a relaxing stay at one of Reykjavík’s homeliest hostels, Matthew has high hopes for the rest of his stay in Iceland: “I can see why it’s a popular destination for tourists. It’s a really beautiful country, with lots of interesting and friendly people.”

A country rife with enchanting landscapes and breathtaking natural wonders, Iceland is not only an outdoorsman’s paradise but also a place where cutting edge scientific research of all kinds takes place. For example, the nation’s small, insular population has made Iceland a top destination for cancer researchers and geneticists fascinated by the purity of Icelanders’ ancestry, with companies like deCODE Genetics leading the way in unlocking the mysteries of the human genome. Sarah Lucht, a Minnesota native and graduate student at Harvard’s School of Public Health, decided to focus her master’s thesis research on a unique genetic mutation among Icelandic women that increases the risk for ovarian and breast cancer. Her curiosity for cancer genetics led her to apply for a residency in Iceland back in 2013, and ever since, she has developed a strong relationship with the country, returning in January 2016 to further her research endeavors and re-discover the country’s haunting, awe-inspiring beauty. Seeing the Sites and Catching Up with Old Friends For Sarah, coming back to Iceland this winter presented a great opportunity to reconnect with the friends and research contacts she made during her residency several years ago. “I was lucky to get to spend a year in Iceland getting to know Icelanders and Icelandic culture,” she explains. “I’ve made many wonderful friends and grew to appreciate so many of the things that make Iceland distinctive. My Icelandic friends and collaborators are some of the most warm-hearted and generous people I know—I am so grateful to have them in my life.” While most of this most recent visit to Iceland was devoted to her project, Sarah managed to sneak outside the city on several occasions to catch a glimpse of sites she didn’t see during her first visit. “I got the opportunity to go to Skaftafell, where I was able to hike on the glacier,” she reports. “It was an amazing experience and my tour group was blessed with the most wonderful of weather. I’ll never forget the beauty of the glacier, the mountains, and the ocean all at once.” Skaftafell, a stunning mountainous region located in Southeast Iceland, used to be a manor farm in ancient times before it was eventually deemed a preservation area and made part of Vatnajökull National Park in 2008. It is a fantastic place to hike, explore, and reconnect with the natural world. Reviving Old Traditions Sarah’s winter visit also gave her a chance to become reacquainted with some of her favorite aspects of Icelandic culture. “I am always surprised by how well so many old traditions are woven into modern life here,” she explains. “Icelanders are wonderful at taking aspects of things from the past, making them new, and building them into new traditions.” During her stay, she purposed to stock up on her favorite Icelandic delicacy, the crispy chocolate candy Nóa Kropp. “I am absolutely addicted to the Icelandic candy Nóa Kropp,” she says, laughing. “I ate six family-size bags in just a few weeks!” A popular bite-sized candy, and the perfect snack food, Nóa Kropp is a chocolate treat native to Iceland that comes in a variety of flavors, including original, mint chocolate, and caramel. Although it’s traditionally one of the slower periods of the Icelandic tourism season, Sarah also recommends that travelers take the time to visit Iceland during the holidays, despite the lack of sunlight. In Iceland, Christmas, or jól, is a jolly three-day event of gift-giving, feasting, and drinking, while the countryʼs New Year’s Eve celebration is like no other, spectacular fireworks lighting up every corner of the capital city and countryside. A Place Like No Other For Sarah, Iceland will always occupy a special place in her heart, and she firmly believes that others should take the time to venture there and experience everything the island nation has to offer. “Go. Iceland is a place of such beauty and strangeness,” she describes. “The landscape is like no other and you will find the cities and towns so enchanting. Rent a car, drive around, stop frequently, and you will never regret it.”

Lake Mývatn and its surroundings are the most admired area in Iceland. At least by the Icelanders. This beautiful oasis is riddled with contrasts, cradled between volcanic hills at the threshold to the highlands. It is black and white, and full of colour. While being a fertile farming area, it also has the most beautiful lava formations you'll ever find. Being in the north of the country, it can be harsh and menacing. Still it has the most tranquil atmosphere and possesses the most delicate flora and fauna. The lake itself, with its islets and inlets, well, you can gaze at it for hours amazed by the lights and shadows at play. Here is where one of Iceland's most prominent investigative journalists, Björn Þorláksson, was born and raised. Though residing in Akureyri at the moment, his birthplace at Vogar by Lake Mývatn, is still home to him. Music all around "Growing up on the banks of Lake Mývatn was wonderful," says Björn. "My parents built their house Vogar and raised me and my three sisters there. I was the youngest, and my earliest memories hold a tender ambience. It wasn't just all this beautiful landscape, but the proximity of the lake – mere 20 meters from our house. The lake became my playground. I was a mere toddler when I started fishing for sticklebacks. From quite a young age, I would join the farmers in a rowboat on the lake to tend to the fishing nets. It was off the most importance to learn to live off the land. All around us was this amazing birdlife, with wonderful mating songs in the spring and then during the summer we would listen to their youngsters finding their voice and join the musical. Magnus Magnusson, the great BBC reporter, once interviewed an old lady from the Mývatn district. She said: Yes, Lake Mývatn is beautiful when the fishing is good. And I was, indeed, raised according to this utilitarianism. There is a direct link between beautiful nature and what it provides. You have this romantic atmosphere with natural iridescence, mountains and birdlife. But, the beauty is not least to be found in what nature provides. We are talking the trout from the lake, the eggs from the islets. We collected thousands of duck eggs each summer. Of course, we would always be very careful to leave enough eggs for the ducks to raise enough ducklings to maintain the stock.” Energy and serenity “I loved growing up surrounded by all this beauty and magic. It made me a mélange of a romantic and a realistic utilitarian. When talking to my childhood friends I realize, we were all shaped by this same element. Then there was the music. It was possibly the single most important factor instilled in us. We were expected to play instruments and sing. There was singing everywhere and, of course, we were required to know all the patriotic songs and folk song by heart. It was part of the romantic flair. Still, the district surrounding Lake Mývatn was also isolated and tempestuous. In hindsight, one realizes how harsh living conditions were back then. It has changed. The district is not isolated at all. I take my young children to visit my "home" at every possible opportunity. We live about an hours drive from the lake, and I want them to grow up to be part of the magic. Whenever we visit, I love to see their eyes light up the moment they spot the lava cliffs. It is wonderful to listen to their joy over the surrounding mountains, and the lake reflecting the Sun. It is a privilege to have access to this beauty. It unleashes both their energy and serenity.” Cultural impact “Whereas the community is concerned, I have unfortunately noticed a decline during the years. In the 1960s, when I was a child, a decision was made to build a silicon factory near Lake Mývatn. Today, this decision is incomprehensible. Back then, the powers that be didn't know any better. As a result, the district became quite vivacious. Because of this factory and the Krafla power plant we experienced a kind of an economic boom. We had quite many people moving into the area in search of work. To me, the district was a growing and prosperous community, thanks to this questionable development. I can't change the fact that in my mind this was some golden age with positive cultural impact. Hundreds of people moved to the area, and the number of pupils at our school increased significantly. Of course, I loved it. This influx of people is part of the magic I experienced. Today, the number of pupils at my old school is only about half the number it used to be. It is sad, as each area's viability is to a large point dependent on people raising children. As a result, along with my children, I experience the Mývatn district as a community on the defensive and going through a crisis. The tremendous increase in tourism has changed the way of life. When I was growing up, I used to go with my father to the Grjótagjá natural spa, each and every night. There we would meet the other inhabitants having a bath. The farmers would discuss anything concerning their work and the community. It was equivalent to the local pub – except, no one was drunk. Today, the inhabitants go the Mývatn Nature Baths where there are hundreds of visitors at any given moment. All the hiking trails and walkways are also awash with tourists.” Flirting with disaster “In spite of the increase in tourism, the economic growth the locals were hoping for has not happened. The tourists visit during the summer, which means there is a lot of work for approximately three months. During the winter, there is no work, and the locals have to survive on unemployment benefits. The Silicon Factory was shut down in 2004. As a result, a lot of other jobs were lost, and people started to move away. Nowadays, those in power are flirting with the idea of building a new power plant. To me, it is a total anachronism, because of the area's sensitive biosphere. I allow myself to hope the magnificent natural wonders around Lake Mývatn will never by sacrificed for economic growth. Even though the community has changed, the lake and the area surrounding it is still the most beautiful and magical place.

A unique capital city that is both lively and laidback, Reykjavík is home to some of Iceland’s most spectacular tourist destinations, including Harpa—a prismatic concert hall located near the city’s stunning harbor. The structure, which was designed by Danish design company Hanning Larsen Architects in cooperation with renowned Icelandic-Danish designer Ólafur Elíasson, strongly resembles Iceland’s basalt rock formations, and has dazzled visitors and locals alike since it first opened in 2011. While wandering through the building’s spacious foyer, we met American couple Cory Padin and Britaney Acome-Campbell, who decided to take a stopover in Reykjavík on their way to Paris and London. Despite having been in Iceland for just twelve hours, it didn’t take long for this jetlagged couple to realize that the small island nation is a charming and striking place that lives up to its growing international hype. Following a Passion for American Football For Cory and Britaney, residents of Arlington, Virginia, Iceland represents the first stop on an exciting European vacation that will culminate in attending an NFL (National Football League) away game in London. “We haven’t taken a vacation yet this year, and we were thinking how could we make the trip really fun and have different legs involved with it,” says Cory, an employee at a design management firm who plays guitar for the Latin/folk fusion band La Unica in his free time. Positive feedback and recommendations from friends ultimately convinced the couple to look into visiting Iceland. “We kept hearing a lot about Iceland—they promote it a lot in the Washington D.C. area…Some of our friends went and then we found some really affordable flights here…We definitely thought this was going to be an amazing place. We like doing outdoorsy stuff, as well as learning about new places and new cultures.” Britaney recently completed her second degree in Health Science and Human Performance and plans on becoming a physical therapist. She most looks forward to exploring Iceland’s otherworldly nature and relaxing in some of the nation’s soothing geothermal pools. “We definitely want to go to the Blue Lagoon…our plan is to rent a car for a couple of days and take the Golden Circle Tour ourselves,” she says. “We don’t mind guided tours, or things like that, but we also like to venture out and do things on our own, to see some waterfalls—awesome stuff like that.” Cory, who shares Britaney’s passion for independent exploration, smiles and nods in agreement. Cold Country, Warm Welcome Opting to rent a room from a local instead of booking a hotel, Cory and Britaney received a generous welcome from their Icelandic host, who insisted on picking them up by car at the BSÍ bus terminal instead of making them walk to their destination. “The people here have been really friendly so far,” Cory explains. “Our host is amazing and was telling us about the legendary troll Grýla and her thirteen children—the Christmas Yule Lads—as well as other Icelandic traditions. It was great.” After taking a short nap to recover from jetlag, Cory and Britaney hit the ground running and started exploring the city, wanting to make the most of the four days they’re spending in Iceland. “I like that the city is really quaint, and you’re able to get to things pretty quickly,” Britaney says. “Everything’s so accessible; there are a lot of different shops in the area. The place where we’re staying is fairly close to the water, so we can walk along the ocean and see things that we normally would not have seen.” Worth a Return Visit “Don’t let the cold scare you away.” That’s Cory’s advice to anyone who might be indecisively considering a trip to Iceland. Although both Cory and Britaney are natives of Buffalo, New York—a city known for its brutal winters—the couple believes that the cold and cloudy weather is no reason to miss out on Reykjavík and the vibrant adventures that await travelers here. “When are you going to have a chance to come again?” Britney asks, smiling. She thinks that Iceland, though off the beaten track, is a friendly place for even the most reluctant tourists to visit. “I will definitely recommend the city to other people,” Cory confirms. “Everything has been spot on with descriptions about how beautiful it is.” The couple has already been thinking about how they will return to Iceland in the coming months: “Now that it’s a bit more affordable flying from Baltimore, we’d like to come back this summer when the days are longer. I definitely think we’ll return soon.”

Every year, Iceland Airwaves attracts bands and solo artists from around the world who consistently push and challenge the boundaries of music. Iceland is home to groundbreaking artists like Björk, Mammút and Sigur Rós, making it the ideal location for a cutting-edge musical event where the unconventional is conventional and innovation is the star of the show. We found husband and wife Sven and Julia Jordan—two indie-music enthusiasts from Hannover, Germany—lounging in the halls of Harpa Concert Hall, waiting for the next line-up to begin. They described Airwaves to us as a “unique festival in a unique country filled with unique and interesting people.” Absorbing the Entire Experience While some tourists travel to Airwaves to see a particular act, Sven and Julia simply wanted to immerse themselves in the entire Airwaves experience in hopes of discovering new musicians and bands. “We visited Iceland two years ago out of curiosity, on vacation,” Sven explains, while sitting on one of Harpa’s stylish square-shaped couches. “After our first trip, we decided to book tickets to Airwaves and just wanted to come and check out the whole event. We didn’t have any artist in mind beforehand.” Julia, who works as a graphic designer in Germany, grew fond of one Icelandic artist’s music during her current stay in Rekjavík. “I loved Máni Orrason,” she says enthusiastically. “We saw him perform both on-venue here at Harpa and off-venue at Bíó Paradís. He was fantastic.” The couple also attended concerts by local artists Axel Flóvent—a folk musician from the northern fishing village of Húsavík—Icelandic rock band For a Minor Reflection, and Sóley, an up-and-coming Icelandic singer/songwriter, whose work has been praised internationally for its quirky, dark, surrealistic sounds. Sven and Julia decided to take a break from the city in the middle of their stay, embarking on the staple Golden Circle tour, which takes tourists to the legendary Geysir, the breathtaking national park Þingvellir, and the mighty Gullfoss waterfall. “Iceland has fascinating nature,” Sven says. “On our previous trip to Iceland, we travelled for a week around the Ring Road, stopped by the glacial lagoon in the south (Jökulsárlón), and enjoyed seeing the puffins along the way as well.” And, of course, the couple could not leave Iceland this time around without stopping by the Blue Lagoon spa for an afternoon of relaxation and rejuvenation! Embracing the Unconventional Both Julia and Sven give Airwaves a rave review, although they readily admit that the festival won’t appeal to every traveler. “It depends on the person and his or her musical tastes,” Julia explains. Sven adds in agreement: “The festival is great. You have to really like indie music and be willing to keep an open mind. A lot of the music here is pretty unique.” Iceland Airwaves has come a long way since its humble premiere in 1999, which took place in an airplane hangar at Reykjavík Airport. The now-iconic music festival continues to serve as one of Iceland’s many forums for creativity and ingenuity, as well as a launching pad for fresh, innovative musical talent.

The vivacious Eliza Reid is very much her own woman; an entrepreneur, a writer, a mother of four, with a Master’s degree in modern history from Oxford University – and quite an asset to her husband As the Icelanders prepare to elect their next president in six weeks time, surveys already show Guðni Th. Jóhannesson to be a clear favorite, with 70% support in a recent poll. A well-grounded, no-nonsense family man with a fantastic sense of humor, it came as little surprise to meet his wife, the Canadian-born, Eliza Reid. One couldn't help but think: What a perfect match! Eliza was born in the beautiful city of Ottawa to a teacher and a homemaker sporting Scottish ancestry. At the age of ten, Eliza and her family moved to a hobby farm just outside the city where they raised sheep (Icelandic sheep as a matter of fact), chickens and turkeys. Eliza and her two younger brothers were raised there, surrounded by working farmers in a 160-year-old farmhouse where her parents are still living. After completing a bachelor's degree in international relations at Trinity College, University of Toronto, Eliza left for England to pursue a master's degree in modern history at St. Antony's College, Oxford University. And, as fate would have it, meet her future husband from Iceland. When asked how they met, the answer reveals a resourceful lady who knows her own mind. Eight tickets in a cup "Our names were drawn together for a blind date," says Eliza. "Well, that is the short version. Guðni was studying for his doctor’s degree in history and I for my master's degree. At the time, we were having a fundraiser for the rowing team – where we were both rowing. The guys on the team all had these cups with their names on them, all arranged in a row. The girls got tickets with their names and were supposed to put them in different cups. The guys would then draw one ticket from their cup and ask the lucky girl out on a date. I had ten tickets and instead of putting them into ten different cups I put eight of them into Guðni's. I liked him a lot and thought I would tilt the balance a little in my favor. I refrained from putting all ten of my tickets into his cup, as I didn't want him to think I was some crazy stalker. Well, he drew one of my tickets and took me out to this very nice Italian restaurant the very next day. I was duly impressed. I had expected a kebab or something simple. We were, after all, students." Life is not about looking back Twenty years on, Eliza is living in Iceland and might be on her way to becoming the mistress of Bessastaðir, the presidential residence. When asked if she misses Canada, she says she would naturally see more of her family if she were living in Canada. "After living most of my adult life in Europe, and thereof thirteen years in Iceland I have come to cherish my Canadian heritage. But, the world is so small it 's hard to miss anything. I can watch the Canadian news, read the Canadian papers, be in close contact with family and friends via the Internet. Anyway, life is not about looking back. You make your choices, get on with life and enjoy what you've got. With four children at the age of 8, 6, 4 and 2, I have a lot to enjoy. My life is here and I love it." But, what was her reaction to the idea of Guðni becoming the next President of Iceland? "People have jokingly mentioned to Guðni for a long time that he should put his name forward to becoming president. Until now, he hasn't taken it seriously. But, I think it is great. Guðni is straightforward and fair, and I think he would be a terrific president. Of course, it was a joint decision, and I totally support him. We have different personalities but the same values and priorities. We are both very grounded and complement each other." Carving out a career Since moving to Iceland in 2003, Eliza has been quite prolific. She has been the editor of Icelandair Stopover, Icelandair's in-flight magazine, since 2012. For some years, she was a staff writer and a freelance writer at Iceland Review (a quarterly specialist publication on Iceland) a freelance writer for Reykjavík Grapevine and Atlantica (the former in-flight magazine for Icelandair) from 2005-2008. Eliza's primary interest is travel writing, and she has published numerous travel features and contributed to several guidebooks. In April 2014, she was named a Top Travel Guide Contributor by TripAdvisor's FlipKey blog. She is also a regular commentator on Icelandic current affairs for foreign media. In 2008, Eliza launched her own company, Dudo, providing services as an editor, writer, and marketing consultant and has, in fact, been a marketing consultant for many of Iceland's largest organizations, as well as a project manager for successful international conferences in Reykjavík. In 2014, Eliza launched her next project, Iceland Writers Retreat, which has been immensely successful and popular http://www.icelandwritersretreat.com. Here to stay Eliza and Guðni moved to Iceland in 2003, after he finished his Ph.D. from Oxford and five years after they met. "I had resigned from my job in England," says Eliza. "I had no job in Iceland, I didn't know the language and had no connections. So I thought I might as well have no money either, and I went on a four-month trip around Russia, and Central and Southeast Asia. Meanwhile, Guðni was here in Iceland finding us a place to live. We bought a flat on Hverfisgata in the center of Reykjavík. I wanted to live in the center with easy access to cafés and restaurants and all sorts of happenings. I had visited Iceland several times before moving here. We had traveled around the country, and I had seen a fair bit of it. But, it is always different when you finally move, especially as I wasn't moving to see how it goes. I was moving here to stay. Guðni had a young daughter he had missed a lot while studying in England and he knew that as soon as his studies were finished he would return to Iceland to be as close to her as possible. So, it was never a question of whether we moved back to Iceland." At the time, Eliza and Guðni didn't have any children of their own, which gave Eliza time to shape her own future in Iceland. "It was important to me to be here as myself, not just as Guðni's wife. I'd worked in marketing before and wanted to get a job on my own merits, not through connections. Three days after arriving here I saw an ad for a marketing person in Morgunblaðið, the daily newspaper. I applied and got the job. I arrived here in August and two weeks later started studying Icelandic at the University of Iceland’s School of Continuing Education. It was an intensive course with lectures eight hours a week. After a year, I had gained a fair basis to speak the language. Through my job and Icelandic language studies, I built up a network with people who are still my friends." Learning the language Of course, Eliza's knowledge of the Icelandic language is excellent. When complimented, she says: "Well, from the start my mother-in-law, bless her, insisted on speaking Icelandic with me – which was immensely helpful. I also told people I met I was learning the language so, would they, please, speak to me in Icelandic. Gradually, it paid off. At the beginning when I was starting to speak very basic Icelandic it felt silly, but you have to go through it. You make a lot of mistakes, but you just have to get it out. You learn languages in stages." Eliza and Guðni were engaged when they moved to Iceland and married in Canada in 2004. "I proposed to him, as a matter of fact," says Eliza. "I didn't want to beat about the bush, drop hints or anything. I am a direct person. It was quite evident that we would get married if I moved with him to Iceland, so I proposed. It wasn't a feminist thing or competition. If he had beaten me to it, then fine, but this is what happened." Career and family life In 2006, Eliza went to West Africa for two months while Guðni was writing a book and then they started having children "in a rapid succession," to use Eliza’s own words. Their children are Duncan Tindur (b. 2007), Donald Gunnar (b. 2009), Sæþór Peter (b. 2011) and Edda Margrét (b. 2013). "I had no ambition when I was growing up to get married and have four children," says Eliza. "You can't do that in Canada unless you are a homemaker or, say, a partner in a successful law firm and able to hire a nanny. Iceland is the best country in the world to have both a career and a big family. You can work full-time and be involved in your children's activities." When asked how it would affect her children if they were raised at the president's children at Bessastaðir, Eliza replies: "It would be a unique opportunity for them. If we were in a big country, like the US, it would be quite a different concept to run for the head of state. Here, I am not worried about people being mean to them. If Guðni became president, they would have the opportunity to meet all kinds of different people, and it would be interesting exposure. Guðni and I are very grounded people, and our kids would not live in luxury. They would have a lot of exposure but still lead a normal life. The biggest intrusion is that they would have to change schools." A word of advice After living in Iceland for thirteen years, Eliza has traveled all over the country, both on holiday and for her writing. Does she have favorite places in Iceland? "Oh, I have still to drive the two highland roads, but I've been just about everywhere else. As for favorite places, no, it would be impossible to choose. There are so many different things to see in Iceland. Indeed, if I were to give advice to those who plan to visit, it would be: Don't try to do everything in a week. It is much better to pick one area to focus on, and then come back to see more. And don't buy bottled water. The tap water is the best in the world."

Oddný Harðardóttir MP still lives in her childhood home Garður, the town on the northernmost tip of the Reykjanes Peninsula is a curious place. At first sight, it looks nondescript and lacking in natural wonders. But, don't be fooled. This is where the boundary between land and sea gets a bit blurred; where you can sit by the shoreline with the wind in your hair and the raging ocean at your feet; where you find the most amazing Northern Lights and the most glorious sunsets. Here is where the politician Oddný Harðardóttir MP, was born and raised. Here is where she still lives and has raised her own children. But why? "Well, when my mother died years ago, my sisters and I just couldn't envision selling her house," says Oddný. "After finishing my University degree I was a teacher in North Iceland. My plans were never to move back to Garður. But, I did. I moved into my mother's house, and I still live there. The decisive factor in my life was 80 square meters of concrete." An isolated place Oddný says life in Garður has changed quite a bit since then. "When I was growing up, Garður was an isolated place, but as children we were not bothered by that. The local Housewives' Club provided recreation and pastime for us, children. Then we had the Children's Guild where we were assigned roles and responsibilities. I was their chaplain. It wasn't just Garður that was different. We were living in a different world. The school and the music school (in the nearby town of Keflavík) were at the centre of our world. There were no curfews at night. During summer, we would play all kinds of ball games. During winter, we would play in the snow and go skating on the pond. We would stay out as long as we liked, or until we got tired. Then we would head home and go to sleep. Garður was our whole world, and we had no need to go anywhere else. There was hardly any communication with the outside world. When I started college in Reykjavík at the age of sixteen, I didn't know the city at all. I never knew whether to turn left or right when leaving a shop on Laugavegur, the main shopping street.” We felt safe “My mother worked in the local fish factory. All my friends' mothers worked there. After school, we would go directly to the factory to see our mothers. Soon we were given odd jobs and tasks at the factory. I was eleven when I started to do a bit of work there. It was by no means child slavery. We really wanted to work there. We felt safe there. Times have changed, especially as access to education is concerned. There is more interconnection between the towns of the Reykjanes Peninsula, which is fortunate. There is often quite a lot of bullying in smaller communities like Garður. I used to say it was crazy raising children in such a small community. There is more diversity in larger communities. Garður, for example, is a soccer community. If you don't play soccer, you are isolated. One of my daughters played soccer, and she was fine with endless parades of friends. The other one did music and gymnastics, a bit more solitary recreations. She didn't start to bloom until she moved on to college in our neighborhood town, Keflavík.” Cure for restlessness “Still, my roots are in Garður. My parents were born and raised there, as well as my grandparents. When I visit the churchyard, I can track my family decades, almost centuries back. Whenever I spot my village returning home from work I start to breath easily. The funny thing, though, is that I have never worked there, apart from three years when I was their mayor. To me, the area by the lighthouses is the most precious place on earth. When my head is whirling, it is the perfect place to sit down on the shore or sheltered by the old lighthouse. Simply sit there and breath until my mind is at ease. It is perfect." Oddný was mayor from 2006 until 2009 when she became a member of parliament. Her party was working towards improving the environment and creating a healthier community for children and teenagers. She didn't quite see her dreams come true. During the election a year after she left as a mayor, the Independent party returned as the local government majority – with quite a different agenda. The cultural town Still, Oddný loves her hometown and the vast extracurricular activities it offers. "We have an unbelievable number of clubs. The Lions Club, the Kiwanis Club, the Women's League, quite some choirs and the Soccer Club for most age groups. The Women's League is especially robust. It has one hundred members, which is quite a lot in such a small community. In fact, it is one of the oldest Women's League in Iceland. We claim to be the Reykjanes Peninsula's cultural town. It developed through farmers who were also fishermen. They were proud owners of their land. The vicarage for the whole area was in Garður. Early on the vicar, Sigurður Sívertsson built an elementary school here. It is the third oldest school in Iceland. He was a great promoter of education, and when people couldn't afford to pay for their children's education, he simply gave them the money." Different kind of beauty One doesn't often hear people praise Garður for its natural beauty. Some even claim it is ugly. Oddný doesn't agree. "We have this most beautiful coastline with the foreland where the lighthouses are located. Then we have a vast and wonderful moors. True, we do not have mountains and waterfalls, but we have an amazing birdlife. Every year we have Icelandic and foreign bird watchers flocking our town to observe the birds in their natural habitat – up close on the trenches. When we expanded the school a few years back, we were mindful of its uniqueness. We added a biology room with direct access to the trenches to make it easy for the kids to observe the birds and other fauna, i.e. the insect live. We wanted them to take notice of this biosphere and learn to understand it. When I was growing up, it was just there. Fortunately, it is still there."

Siglufjörður the herring town in the northern region in Iceland Geographically, the town of Siglufjörður is an isolated place. It is a narrow fjord a short distance from the Arctic Circle, and is surrounded by steep mountains. The first road built to connect Siglufjörður to the main roads in Iceland, west of the fjord, was in 1940 when the Siglufjörður mountain pass opened. However, all this has changed dramatically in recent years, with a new tunnel from the east side, connecting Siglufjörður to the neighboring town of Ólafsfjörður, along with a new hotel, modern restaurants, and large projects to attract tourism to this beautiful old fishing town. The town is now a place to have in mind if you are looking for a place to stay or visit when planning a vacation in Iceland. Although mentioned in the Book of Settlement, settled by Þormóður Rammi (Thormod the Strong), Siglufjörður is seldom mentioned in written documents up until the middle of the 19th century, when it began to develop as a hamlet or a village. On the other hand, the location has its advantages. For centuries, the surrounding waters were packed with abundant and valuable natural resources. Moreover, it was a short distance from rich fishing grounds, often filled with cod, halibut, and herring. The center of the herring frenzy Houses in Siglufjörður town in the northern region in Iceland In the late 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, Siglufjörður was the center of fishing and fish processing adventures; Norwegian entrepreneurs started their first shark-catching ventures here. Understanding the value and volume of the massive herring stock, they also created a herring venture. Siglufjörður became the primary place of their herring operation; this marked the beginning of the town’s growth and highly fascinating history. Icelanders quickly learned the value of the herring stock and started their ventures in the industry. In the first decades of the 20th century, factories for herring-meal production were constructed left and right, both in the village and on the other side of the fjord. The business was highly profitable, and Siglufjörður became a kind of Klondike town. The population exploded in the ’30s and throughout the ’40s. Siglufjörður has a special place in my heart, as my father was born and raised there during the most active part of the herring frenzy. My great-grandfather also lived there after immigrating from Denmark. My Norwegian grandfather from my father’s side lived there almost all his adult life with my Icelandic grandmother, who was born in Siglufjörður and gave birth to 14 children before reaching the age of 40. Siglufjörður is becoming one of the most exciting urban tourist attractions in Iceland The fascinating Herring museum in Siglufjörður Today, with approximately 1200 inhabitants, the town is not as isolated as in the past and is connected to the main road with two tunnels, one from the west and one from the east. This makes Siglufjörður a perfect place to stop at. It is one of those beautiful towns in Iceland that people should definitely visit, which is one of the reasons to drive the loop around Tröllaskagi Peninsula when driving the Ring Road. In the last century, the town has experienced dramatic changes, which can be viewed in the fascinating Herring Museum in the middle of the town. At one point, it was the busiest place in Iceland during summer and the center of the booming herring industry; it was the most populated area in the whole country, floating with herring entrepreneurs, workers, ships, and everything that made up the herring boom. Today, it is being transformed into an exciting tourist attraction. A considerable amount of funds is being devoted to hotels, restaurants, ski lifts, golf courses, and museums. In addition, residents are renovating some of the old houses, and the town has finally managed to clean up all the docks and piers that companies built in the ’30 and the ’40s when the herring boom dominated the town. Today a part of Fjallabyggð municipality Old apartment buildings in Siglufjörður town Siglufjörður is now part of the Fjallabyggð municipality after merging with its neighboring town Ólafsfjörður. The Fjallabyggð municipality offers good service with two kindergartens, primary and secondary schools, excellent sports facilities, and two swimming pools. Most of the houses were built in the ’30s through the ’60s, and are facilitated with geothermal heating. The town has excellent health care and good service for the elderly. Siglufjörður also boosts one of the best skiing slopes in Iceland. Know what to look for when you rent a car for your vacation in Iceland

The Icelandic poet, Gerður Kristný says a single word can tell a whole story Gerður Kristný is Iceland's best-loved poet today. This beautiful, quiet woman with her legendary and quirky sense of humour has already won most literary prizes awarded in Iceland. Her work has also been nominated for the Nordic Literary Prize. Gerdur's poetry has been translated into numerous languages; all the major Nordic languages, German, French, Dutch, Esperanto and English. But, Gerður's talent is by no means limited to poetry. She has written novels and short stories, theatre plays, a biography and much-loved children's books. Most of her works have received or been nominated for literary prizes. Still, it is Gerdur's poetry that most certainly sets her apart from the crowds. Poetry is by no means a mainstream literary genre and Icelandic is by no means a mainstream language. Writing poetry in Icelandic sounds like a tad farfetched idea. Digging into ancient worlds "Oh no, not at all," says Gerður Kristný. "It is precisely this language that provides me with inspiration. Along with the Sagas and the Old Icelandic Poems. I find I can dig into them anywhere, anytime for inspiration and frisson. They are a well of plenty I can always turn to. I think we Icelanders are immensely fortunate to be able to read and understand those ancient works." Gerður's approach is not to mimic Iceland's ancient literary works. Not by a long shot. She is more prone to turn them upside down to find modern relevance in the ancient legends. She has dared to give a brand new meaning to ancient Icelandic poetry, the holiest of the holy in Icelandic literature across the centuries. Not only has she gotten away with it, but she is also much admired for it. But, why have the Icelanders always been so interested in poetry? The traditional oral preservation "We consider poetry to be the origin of all literature," says Gerður Kristný. "It was the art form the public learned by heart. We had rhythm and alliteration and rhyme to make it easier to learn poetry by heart and transfer the poetry from one generation to the next. That is how our ancient poetry survived during the early middle ages; by oral preservation." Some languages, like English, are considered to be very rich in vocabulary. The Icelandic language, not so. What is it like to write poetry in a language that does not possess a rich vocabulary? "Well, it is not about the actual words, but the story behind the words. A single word can include a large story and refer to ancient times. Whereas poetry is concerned, the language is what ignites my passion. Therefore, I am never short of names for the terms I like to use. When you know your language well and know how to play with it, you can take it anywhere. A language is a great box of toys. It is my tools and toys, making my work full of fun. One simply must have fun." A strong literary genre How does poetry rank in Iceland today? "Poetry is still a strong literary genre in Iceland. We are very fond of our poets and delighted when they publish a new book. We embrace young poets and try to up-to-date on what is being published. Our poets may not be as well known as the novelists, and they are not selling, as many copies of their books, but those readers who get hooked on poetry, stay pretty loyal. All the major publishers are publishing poetry even though they know quite well poetry books are not going to sell by truckloads. They are constantly on the lookout for good poets. Poetry matters and the people who work at publishing houses are very much aware of that fact. Of course, publishing poetry is always a risk, but where there is a will, there is a way. Books can be published in hard covers or as paperbacks. You can spend a lot of money on an elegant publication, or less money on an inexpensive one, albeit a beautiful one." Apart from the above-mentioned languages, Gerður Kristný's poetry has been translated into 25 languages, including Hindi, Bengali and Chinese. But, how does a poem written in Icelandic travel from one language to another? The importance of literature in Iceland “We have a literary institute, The Icelandic Literature Centre and our capital, Reykjavík, is one of Unesco’s Cities of Literature. That means we have means to promote Icelandic literature abroad. We know what an important export literature is. If I am, for example, invited to a literature festival to read from my books, I can have my travelling expenses paid for me. This understanding of the importance of literature in the big scheme of things is of immense help. Icelandic writers enjoy great support from the authorities in the form of artists' stipends. Stipends, like we enjoy in Iceland, are not that common throughout the world where you'll find writers and poets teaching in universities, colleges and all kinds of workshops. Nowadays, we are fighting for authors of children's books to enjoy the same recognition as other writers.” Introducing culture Gerður's poetry has been translated into numerous languages. Only one of her children's books has been translated into Norwegian, Danish and German. One can’t help but wonder why more of her children´s books have not been translated. But, do translations matter? "They matter a great deal. When I was a child, I read everything by Enid Blyton and other translated authors. It brought me endless joy. We have translated the biggest Nordic authors of children's books into Icelandic, but I would like to see more. The Nordic writers are very good, and it is an asset for a small language community as Iceland to be able to read the great works being written in our neighboring countries. It is equally important for us to have Icelandic children's books translated into other languages. It is part of exporting our culture, a part of introducing our culture to children living elsewhere. Furthermore, with increased tourism, it would be wonderful to offer a greater variety of books in our bookstores. Not just thrillers, but also other genres, not least children's books.”