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It doesn’t matter if you are someone who likes to plan vacations meticulously, or someone who likes to travel spontaneously—Iceland is an ideal location for everyone. New York City resident Scott Blair decided to embark on a spur-of-the-moment trip to Iceland with a friend in hopes of seeing otherworldly scenery and exploring spectacular geothermal landscapes—and his trip to the island nation did not disappoint. An attorney who moved to the Big Apple in 2008 to begin law school at New York University, Scott travelled extensively across Southwest Iceland and the Reykjanes peninsula during his six-day stay. The sites he saw and the adventures he experienced made quite an impression on him. A Love for Landscapes “I've thought of going to Iceland for a while, because I've always been impressed by the scenery,” he says. “But I also wanted to see one of the most geologically active areas that I can get to, and thought the hot springs of Iceland would be worth visiting, and they definitely were. It was a bit of an impromptu trip, but my friend and I decided to go and have fun.” Although his vacation was a whirlwind adventure, Scott enjoyed his interactions with the locals, finding them affable and approachable. “I wasn’t surprised at how friendly everyone in Iceland was, but Icelanders seem to be,” he explains. “On several occasions people came up to me to chat, and inevitably they would say ‘of course, most Icelanders don’t just say hello to strangers.’” However, Icelanders’ latest culinary craze, the new Dunkin Donuts on Reykjavík’s main street Laugavegur, was a bit perplexing to him as an American from New York City. “The lines outside were a bit surprising,” he adds with a chuckle. Taking the Roads Less Travelled Scott and his friend determined to make the most of their short visit, covering as much of the island as possible while still purposing to travel to some lesser known destinations. “We mostly did the touristy things, but we also snorkeled in Þingvellir, which was beautiful,” he says while describing the highlights of his journey. “Perhaps the greatest fun we had was driving around Southwest Iceland; I enjoyed stopping at all of the springs and valleys that hadn’t yet made it into tourist books.” One region of Iceland rose above the rest in Scott’s mind, when asked about his favorite landscape and day trip. “It's very hard to choose, but I would say going to the Reykjanes peninsula,” he reports of his travels. “The entire country was beautiful, but Reykjanes was the most alien landscape I saw there, which was a big reason I went to Iceland in the first place.” Like Something Out of a Role-Playing Game Because his first sojourn to Iceland was a success, Scott foresees coming back to visit in the future, but at a different time of year so that he can catch a clearer glimpse of the country’s most magnificent natural phenomenon—the northern lights. “I enjoyed my time in Iceland immensely; if I came back again, it would be for a very different, winter-focused trip because I would still like to see the northern lights,” he says. Inspired the nation’s stark, desolate landscapes—which, he says, remind him of something out of a Dungeons and Dragons game—Scott would also like to participate in the annual Reykjavík Marathon sometime in the future. His recommendation to anyone contemplating a trip to Iceland can be summed up in two simple words: “Do it!”

Every year, countries across Europe hold national pre-selections to determine who will represent them in the Eurovision Song Contest—a spectacular annual music competition, broadcast all across Europe, that is a sort of entertaining blend between The X Factor and the Olympics. Though always optimistic, Iceland has yet to win the competition in its thirty years of participation, although the country boasts two stellar second-place finishes, one in 1998 and the other in 2009. Over the years, Iceland’s pre-selection show, Söngvakeppnin Sjónvarpsins, has accrued a small international cult following, drawing fans and journalists from across Europe to Iceland once a year to interview contestants, socialize, and enjoy the music. Roger Fry, a professional translator and news editor from the UK, who currently resides in Norway, has attended the Söngvakeppnin final for the past few years. During every visit, he purposes to catch up with old friends, see something new, and cheer on his favorite contestants, in what has become one of his most beloved travel traditions. Catching Up with Friends For Roger, venturing to Iceland is always a great way to take a break from the hustle and bustle of life in Norway. “[This is] my fourth time attending the Söngvakeppnin final, so that seems to have become a habit hard to break,” he explains of his most recent trip. “It’s always such a fun event, gathering whole families and groups of friends. For me it’s certainly more about the atmosphere and meeting up with friends than the music, although there’s always a couple of songs I really love. It’s just a shame there isn’t more ‘regular’ Icelandic music there. That would be fantastic!” Past Eurovision entries from Iceland have ranged from catchy pop songs to powerful, melodious ballads, and the competition frequently attracts repeat contestants, as it did this year. In 2016, Iceland will be represented by Gréta Salóme Stefánsdóttir—who also performed for Iceland back in 2012—with the song “Hear Them Calling.ˮ When asked about Iceland’s chances of winning this time around, Roger, who often attends Eurovision in May, offered his initial reaction: “I am quite useless at predicting Eurovision results, but I have my doubts…The song itself is nice enough, but maybe lacking the X factor. I’m not sure if it will have a huge appeal outside the Nordics. Now, watch it win!” Both Foreign and Familiar While some people come to Iceland to explore its majestic landscapes, Roger prefers sticking close to the city, partaking in Reykjavík nightlife. “I'm almost ashamed to say that I have only ever spent time in Reykjavik,” he explains. “My excuse is that I don’t want to see everything ‘this time’ so that I have something to come back for. But I’ve said that a few times now…I’m generally a bad tourist wherever I go, avoiding anything resembling a tourist attraction and focusing on discovering the best cafés and restaurants and people watching. Having said that, I think my favorite thing in Iceland is the sky. There always seems to be so much of it sweeping majestically above me.” To Roger, Iceland is a land both foreign and familiar. Every time he visits, he feels strangely at home due to the island nation’s strong Scandinavian roots. “Maybe it’s the Nordic link and familiarity, but I don’t think I’ve been surprised at all [by Icelandic culture],” he reports. “I must have known what to expect: friendly, quiet, unassuming Nordic-ness! You know, things work out, and even in the midst of a blizzard people just get on with things. No fuss. I think that’s what I most like about the Nordics: there’s not much time for melodrama!” The one thing he reports initially caught him slightly off guard is the intensity of the Icelandic party scene. “Maybe the only slight surprise is just how full the pubs and clubs still are at 3am, 4am, 5am…but Reykjavík has the party reputation, so that’s not really a surprise either!” A frequent visitor to Iceland who is well-acquainted with everything Reykjavík has to offer, Roger has a simple piece of advice for those pondering a potential trip to Iceland: “Book your flight today!”

During the dark winter months, travelers from every corner of the world fly to Iceland in hopes of catching a glimpse of the spectacular northern lights. This natural phenomenon—which is created by solar winds disturbing the earth’s magnetosphere—faithfully lights up the Icelandic sky in undulating shades of green and red every year, creating an awe-inspiring display of natural beauty that is as memorable as it is breathtaking. Real estate attorney and university advisor Ana Droscoski ventured all the way from Baltimore, Maryland, with a friend to witness the lights firsthand. A day after her arrival, she and her travel companion were welcomed by the winter’s first heavy snowfall. Determined and prepared, Ana wisely planned a lengthier ten-day trip, giving herself ample time and opportunity to view one of the world’s most captivating natural wonders. A Long-Awaited Vacation “I’ve wanted to come to Iceland for a while now, and timing-wise, the northern lights took priority,” Ana says about her decision to travel to Iceland in the wintertime, the best time to see the Aurora Borealis. When a major international airline started offering direct flights from Baltimore to Reykjavík earlier this year, she knew she had to book the trip. “The flight over here was very pleasant,” she explains, in spite of her lingering jet-lag. “It was a direct flight from Baltimore to Iceland, which is about the same distance as flying cross-country from Baltimore to Los Angeles, so it wasn’t that bad.” Although she and her friend had just flown in the previous day, Ana quickly noticed the similarities between Iceland and another Nordic country where she had recently vacationed. “My first impression of Reykjavík is that it’s very similar to Copenhagen,” she explains, looking around. “Everything, including the architecture, is very Scandinavian in appearance.” Despite landing in Iceland shortly after what locals have labelled “Snowmaggedon”—the heaviest snowfall in Reykjavík since the 1970s—this nine-year Baltimore resident remained relatively unfazed by the nation’s unpredictable weather. “There’s definitely a lot of snow on the ground,” she says with a laugh. “We heard it was a record-setting year. But it’s definitely not as cold as I thought it would be.” A Passion for Travelling Outside of her career in law and higher education, Ana’s greatest pastime is world travel, and her journey to Iceland represents just one stop on her extensive list of travels. “Traveling is my favorite hobby, and one of my favorite destinations was Turkey,” she describes, when asked about some of her most memorable vacation spots. “Everything there was amazing—the country, the landscape, the history.” She expresses equally high hopes for her experiences in Iceland. Once the weather and snow clear up, she and her friend intend to simmer in the Blue Lagoon and take a bus tour across South Iceland, in addition to their northern lights excursions. “Everything is very positive so far,” she explains, sizing up her time in Iceland. “I have seen the northern lights twice; on the Northern Light Tour outside Reykjavík and then again in Reykjavík despite the light pollution. It was great!”

Iceland, with its close proximity to the U.S., Canada, and mainland Europe, is an ideal location for travelers of all types—from experienced globe-trotters to first-time international tourists. The nature is inspiring, the people hospitable, the city entertaining, and the culture a distinct and diverse conglomeration of Scandinavian, European, and North American influences. Pablo Juarez, a native of Ottawa, Canada, returned to Reykjavík for a second time this winter, after a memorable journey to Iceland last year. An explorer who has spent the last fifteen months sightseeing and working across the globe, Pablo has found both of his trips to Iceland incredibly worthwhile and the sites he’s seen here like nowhere else in the world. Journey to the North On his first trip to Iceland, Pablo endeavored to balance his time between city life and seeing as much of the countryside as possible. “I’ve actually been traveling for fifteen months, did a working holiday in Australia, and have just been checking out cool places all over the world,” he says of his extensive travels. “I’m only here for a few nights this time around. When I was here last March, I took the Golden Circle tour, explored a little bit of the South Coast, drove up to Akureyri [often referred to as the northern capital of Iceland] and saw some of the sites up by Lake Mývatn as well.” Lake Mývatn is a biologically-productive, geothermal lake near the volcano Krafta that is surrounded by otherworldly, photogenic wetlands—a must-see location for lovers of unique and mysterious natural beauty. “Lake Mývatn, and the region around it, is amazing. It’s like the land of nowhere,” he recalls. He also recommends renting a car and driving up north to Akureyri, less for partying more for sightseeing: “The city a bit smaller than Reykjavík, so obviously the night life isn’t as notable, but the landscape around it is just unbelievable.” Top on his list of all the sites he’s seen in Iceland is the impressive waterfall Skógafoss, one of the country’s largest waterfalls, with a width of 82 feet (25m) and a height of 200 feet (60m). “It’s a beautiful location, where you can see and take pictures of double rainbows (on sunny days),” he says, smiling. The magnificent waterfall, which is located along Iceland’s South Coast, has made cameos in numerous films and music videos, most recently in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, as well as a Justin Bieber’s video for “I’ll Show You.” Pablo intends to stay close to the capital this time round to get to know the locals and the culture better. “I’ve done a glacier trek and other touristy things as well, but on this trip, I’ll be spending most of my time hanging back in Reykjavík because it’s such a cool city,” he explains, reclining in his chair at a table in Loft Hostel. “The locals are really friendly and everyone seems to speak English really well,” he reports. “Like in a lot of Scandinavian countries, the people here are really warm, and I’ve always felt really comfortable and welcomed here in Reykjavík.” Boundless Nature Although his current stay in Reykjavík will be brief, Iceland nevertheless stands out as one of Pablo’s favorite vacation spots. A traveler who once found incidental global fame after tennis star Eugenie Bouchard took a widely-shared and broadcasted selfie with him, he urges others to put Iceland at the top of their lists of places to see: “Whether it’s winter or summer, come check it out. The landscape is something you’ll never find anywhere else, with its hot springs, its waterfalls, its mountains—it’s just boundless. Come enjoy the culture in between taking your excursions. It’s an amazing place.”

Mosfellsbær is possibly the strangest town in Iceland. Located just north of Reykjavík with a population of approximately 9000, it is a sleepy and quiet community where nothing ever seems to happen. It doesn't have a shopping street, a buzzing centre with restaurants and cafés, nor a vibrant nightlife. But, year after year, it is voted the best place to live in Iceland. Mosfellsbær is the town where the psychiatrist Lára Halla Maack finally settled in a beautiful yellow house with a big, colourful garden where she cultivates her roses. Raised in Denmark until the age of twelve, during an era when women were homemakers, Lára Halla was happy to skip three school years. When she was 8, again when she was 10 and, finally at 12 years of age. "My parents were broad-minded enough to realize my brothers, and I wouldn't learn anything of worth at school," says Lára Halla. "Instead we would pick apples and give to the other kids during their breaks. Then we would climb our three-storey house and jump from the roof, hanging on to a parasol. It was a huge parasol to slow us down. We were just ordinary, out-of-control Icelandic children.” From pranks to protests After spending some years in Iceland, this time attending school, Lára Halla moved to California to study psychology. "It was an excellent college and quite posh. We even had waiters serving our tables. It was during the middle of the Vietnam protest era and, true to form, I attended all protests in the Oakland area. It was part of a thrill because I was terrified. There were soldiers placed on every street corner, the atmosphere had a feeling of semi-terrorism with constant news of murders. But, marching with the millions protesting the Vietnam War, was a terrific experience that left a life-long impact on me. I also loved the college with its broad syllabi. Apart from psychology I got to take courses in music analysis and art history. It changed my listening and observation skills forever. During my year in California, I came to realize I'd never known the difference between psychology and psychiatry. What I wanted to do was psychiatry. So, I returned to Iceland to study medicine. Later I moved to the UK for my chosen field of study, psychiatry." Back home After completing her psychiatry studies where she specialized in child psychiatry and forensic psychiatry, Lára Halla decided to return home. She'd spent eight years in the UK and didn't find Iceland welcoming at all. "In my field we talk about the "glass roof." In the UK, when you have reached a certain professional seniority it disappears. In Iceland, it doesn't. Instead, you have to strive and struggle. You are nothing, you don't know anything and are quite worthless until you have proven yourself. To add to the problem, returning home fills one with a feeling of worthlessness. You see, in Iceland, it is of the utmost importance to have witnessed history in the making. It relates to both personal and impersonal matters. It can relate to as insignificant matters as a street being asphalted. You were away and didn't know who said what, why and when. Everything is history in Iceland. If you were away, you are not part of it. You missed out on "everything." Coming home and clashing with this atmosphere was simply too much. I took a U-turn back to England. Two years later though Lára Halla was back in Iceland and this time for good. She started working at the Landspítalinn, University Hospital, at the psychiatric ward's alcoholic unit. There she counted herself lucky to get an opportunity to coach medical students. Though not a lecturer at the University, she got to impact their training on the job – and her contribution was much appreciated. And, she liked her job. The city centre During this period in her life, Lára Halla lived in the centre of Reykjavík in a tiny house with an asphalted lot being used as a car park. She had the asphalt removed and in its place created a garden. "Gardening runs in the family," says Lára Halla. "My mother loved plants and flowers, both indoors and outdoors. She spent a lot of time tending to her gardens, and I would join her at any given opportunity. All my aunts and cousins were the same." Lára Halla's house in the city centre was a mere few steps from the National Theatre and the Opera House. On the spur of a moment, she would decide to attend a performance. Obtaining a single ticket at the last minute was always an option. The centre seemed to be the perfect setting for a perfect lifestyle for Lara Halla. Still, in the year 2000 she upped and moved to Mosfellsbær. Why? The dedicated hoarders "Well, my husband and I are both dedicated hoarders. The house in the centre of Reykjavík was too small to accommodate all our stuff. We decided to search for a new house. Altogether we looked at 99 houses, spanning the area from Keflavík to Kjalarnes. Like true hoarders, we created a file for our search, documenting pros and cons. My husband wanted a house with a view. I didn't understand why but decided I had to adapt to being a broad-minded wife. He is English and has his English standards and taste. My taste is more central Europe, rather old fashioned. This house was number 99, and it ticked all our boxes. It is a beautiful house with large windows in every direction. It had a wonderful view that, by the way, has disappeared due to the trees in the neighbourhood. They have grown about 15 meters since we moved in. As we didn't care which part of the larger Reykjavík area we would end up in, we realized this house ticked all our boxes – and it was large enough to accommodate all our stuff. We didn't need to throw anything away. We love living here in Mosfellsbær. Being cradled in the bosom of Mount Esja defies words. Reykjavík has a tendency to claim Esja as their mountain, but it is ours. We can practically touch it.” Tropical climate “Mosfellsbær has changed a lot in fifteen years. The man-made environment has improved immensely. Nowadays we have beautiful playgrounds, small bridges crossing banks and rivers, bird observation shelters. When we moved here, we realized the whole area was great for outdoors recreations. Today, it is even much better. You can go hiking from your doorstep. Into valleys and mountains, for miles and miles. Even a short stroll takes you into beautiful nature with exquisite flora and marvelous bird-life. Moving here required a change in lifestyle. Nowadays, if I want to go to the theatre or the opera, I have to plan for it. Instead, I get to live in an environment where everything can be turned into a fairy tale when my grandchildren come to visit. And then, there is my garden. My house is located on a hillside. And, curiously enough this hillside, facing south is some tropical pool. You can grow just about anything here. I had never cultivated roses before moving here. When I realized how tropical the climate was in my garden, I decided to try for the roses. I love their colours, their fragrance and beauty. My roses have thrived in my garden. They are a great joy to me.

Located on Bankastræti in downtown Reykjavík—just a few minutes walk from Harpa Concert Hall, Hallgrímskirkja, and Tjörnin (the city pond)—Loft Hostel is a cozy, multi-story hotel complete with a café, bar, and a rooftop terrace that offers stunning views of the city and the northern lights during the winter months. For locals, the hostel is also a popular venue for intimate concerts and poetry readings, as well as small social events that demand a laidback vibe and atmosphere. We found Matthew Morgan, a Londoner who decided to make a stopover trip in Iceland, relaxing in the Loft Hostel café shortly after he competed in a local gingerbread-decorating contest to welcome in the holiday season. Although he arrived in Reykjavík during the heart of winter, Matthew quickly realized that Iceland is a special place that definitely lives up to its hype. A Stormy Arrival Matthew spent most of his first night in Reykjavík shuddered indoors due to an uncharacteristically strong winter storm, but he did not let that deter him from enjoying himself and catching up on some rest and relaxation. “I’m travelling via Iceland to go to Canada, but I decided to take a three-day stopover here,” he explains of his travel itinerary. “I’m travelling for two months, so this is part of a long vacation…I intended yesterday to see the northern lights, but we were told not to leave the building due to the windy weather!” Although the storm put a temporary damper on his plans, Matthew was surprised by one aspect of the weather: “I actually haven’t been that cold since I’ve been here. I’ve dressed for the weather, and I’ve felt perfectly fine.” Matthew intends to hit some of Iceland’s hottest tourist destinations before he departs for Canada, taking in as much as he can of the country’s gorgeous landscape and scenery. Golden Circle tour tomorrow “I’m going on a Golden Circle tour tomorrow, followed by a northern lights excursion, and then I’m going to stop at the Blue Lagoon on the way to the airport,” he explains. “It’s a shame that it’s been so cloudy, but from what I’ve seen so far, the landscape is absolutely beautiful.” Matthew’s travels will take him not only to see the spectacular waterfall Gullfoss but also to experience Þingvellir, Iceland’s glorious national park, where the first meeting of the nation’s parliament, known as the Alþingi, took place over a millennium ago. One of the highpoints of Matthew’s stay has been interacting with the locals while spending time unwinding after his plane flights. When asked about his conversations with Icelanders, he jokingly says, “They’re so rude!” before adding “I would definitely recommend booking a flight to Iceland. So far I’ve really enjoyed my stay. The people are really lovely and unbelievably friendly.” In Search of Vegetarian Cuisine A prolific voice actor, who has done voiceover work for Sky News, BBC, and various other media companies in Britain, Matthew has noticed something quite interesting about Iceland’s hardy cuisine during his stay. “I’m a vegetarian and tried to order a vegetarian hot dog, which exists in a lot of places like the U.S. and Canada, but not here apparently,” he explains. Due to Iceland’s harsh environment and cold climate, meat dishes, mostly fish and lamb, have dominated the Icelandic diet for centuries. However, slowly but surely, vegetarian options are catching on in Reykjavík, with popular restaurants like Gló and Fresco offering a range of vegetable-focused options for vegetarian or health-conscious travelers. All in all, after a night on the town and a relaxing stay at one of Reykjavík’s homeliest hostels, Matthew has high hopes for the rest of his stay in Iceland: “I can see why it’s a popular destination for tourists. It’s a really beautiful country, with lots of interesting and friendly people.”

A country rife with enchanting landscapes and breathtaking natural wonders, Iceland is not only an outdoorsman’s paradise but also a place where cutting edge scientific research of all kinds takes place. For example, the nation’s small, insular population has made Iceland a top destination for cancer researchers and geneticists fascinated by the purity of Icelanders’ ancestry, with companies like deCODE Genetics leading the way in unlocking the mysteries of the human genome. Sarah Lucht, a Minnesota native and graduate student at Harvard’s School of Public Health, decided to focus her master’s thesis research on a unique genetic mutation among Icelandic women that increases the risk for ovarian and breast cancer. Her curiosity for cancer genetics led her to apply for a residency in Iceland back in 2013, and ever since, she has developed a strong relationship with the country, returning in January 2016 to further her research endeavors and re-discover the country’s haunting, awe-inspiring beauty. Seeing the Sites and Catching Up with Old Friends For Sarah, coming back to Iceland this winter presented a great opportunity to reconnect with the friends and research contacts she made during her residency several years ago. “I was lucky to get to spend a year in Iceland getting to know Icelanders and Icelandic culture,” she explains. “I’ve made many wonderful friends and grew to appreciate so many of the things that make Iceland distinctive. My Icelandic friends and collaborators are some of the most warm-hearted and generous people I know—I am so grateful to have them in my life.” While most of this most recent visit to Iceland was devoted to her project, Sarah managed to sneak outside the city on several occasions to catch a glimpse of sites she didn’t see during her first visit. “I got the opportunity to go to Skaftafell, where I was able to hike on the glacier,” she reports. “It was an amazing experience and my tour group was blessed with the most wonderful of weather. I’ll never forget the beauty of the glacier, the mountains, and the ocean all at once.” Skaftafell, a stunning mountainous region located in Southeast Iceland, used to be a manor farm in ancient times before it was eventually deemed a preservation area and made part of Vatnajökull National Park in 2008. It is a fantastic place to hike, explore, and reconnect with the natural world. Reviving Old Traditions Sarah’s winter visit also gave her a chance to become reacquainted with some of her favorite aspects of Icelandic culture. “I am always surprised by how well so many old traditions are woven into modern life here,” she explains. “Icelanders are wonderful at taking aspects of things from the past, making them new, and building them into new traditions.” During her stay, she purposed to stock up on her favorite Icelandic delicacy, the crispy chocolate candy Nóa Kropp. “I am absolutely addicted to the Icelandic candy Nóa Kropp,” she says, laughing. “I ate six family-size bags in just a few weeks!” A popular bite-sized candy, and the perfect snack food, Nóa Kropp is a chocolate treat native to Iceland that comes in a variety of flavors, including original, mint chocolate, and caramel. Although it’s traditionally one of the slower periods of the Icelandic tourism season, Sarah also recommends that travelers take the time to visit Iceland during the holidays, despite the lack of sunlight. In Iceland, Christmas, or jól, is a jolly three-day event of gift-giving, feasting, and drinking, while the countryʼs New Year’s Eve celebration is like no other, spectacular fireworks lighting up every corner of the capital city and countryside. A Place Like No Other For Sarah, Iceland will always occupy a special place in her heart, and she firmly believes that others should take the time to venture there and experience everything the island nation has to offer. “Go. Iceland is a place of such beauty and strangeness,” she describes. “The landscape is like no other and you will find the cities and towns so enchanting. Rent a car, drive around, stop frequently, and you will never regret it.”

Lake Mývatn and its surroundings are the most admired area in Iceland. At least by the Icelanders. This beautiful oasis is riddled with contrasts, cradled between volcanic hills at the threshold to the highlands. It is black and white, and full of colour. While being a fertile farming area, it also has the most beautiful lava formations you'll ever find. Being in the north of the country, it can be harsh and menacing. Still it has the most tranquil atmosphere and possesses the most delicate flora and fauna. The lake itself, with its islets and inlets, well, you can gaze at it for hours amazed by the lights and shadows at play. Here is where one of Iceland's most prominent investigative journalists, Björn Þorláksson, was born and raised. Though residing in Akureyri at the moment, his birthplace at Vogar by Lake Mývatn, is still home to him. Music all around "Growing up on the banks of Lake Mývatn was wonderful," says Björn. "My parents built their house Vogar and raised me and my three sisters there. I was the youngest, and my earliest memories hold a tender ambience. It wasn't just all this beautiful landscape, but the proximity of the lake – mere 20 meters from our house. The lake became my playground. I was a mere toddler when I started fishing for sticklebacks. From quite a young age, I would join the farmers in a rowboat on the lake to tend to the fishing nets. It was off the most importance to learn to live off the land. All around us was this amazing birdlife, with wonderful mating songs in the spring and then during the summer we would listen to their youngsters finding their voice and join the musical. Magnus Magnusson, the great BBC reporter, once interviewed an old lady from the Mývatn district. She said: Yes, Lake Mývatn is beautiful when the fishing is good. And I was, indeed, raised according to this utilitarianism. There is a direct link between beautiful nature and what it provides. You have this romantic atmosphere with natural iridescence, mountains and birdlife. But, the beauty is not least to be found in what nature provides. We are talking the trout from the lake, the eggs from the islets. We collected thousands of duck eggs each summer. Of course, we would always be very careful to leave enough eggs for the ducks to raise enough ducklings to maintain the stock.” Energy and serenity “I loved growing up surrounded by all this beauty and magic. It made me a mélange of a romantic and a realistic utilitarian. When talking to my childhood friends I realize, we were all shaped by this same element. Then there was the music. It was possibly the single most important factor instilled in us. We were expected to play instruments and sing. There was singing everywhere and, of course, we were required to know all the patriotic songs and folk song by heart. It was part of the romantic flair. Still, the district surrounding Lake Mývatn was also isolated and tempestuous. In hindsight, one realizes how harsh living conditions were back then. It has changed. The district is not isolated at all. I take my young children to visit my "home" at every possible opportunity. We live about an hours drive from the lake, and I want them to grow up to be part of the magic. Whenever we visit, I love to see their eyes light up the moment they spot the lava cliffs. It is wonderful to listen to their joy over the surrounding mountains, and the lake reflecting the Sun. It is a privilege to have access to this beauty. It unleashes both their energy and serenity.” Cultural impact “Whereas the community is concerned, I have unfortunately noticed a decline during the years. In the 1960s, when I was a child, a decision was made to build a silicon factory near Lake Mývatn. Today, this decision is incomprehensible. Back then, the powers that be didn't know any better. As a result, the district became quite vivacious. Because of this factory and the Krafla power plant we experienced a kind of an economic boom. We had quite many people moving into the area in search of work. To me, the district was a growing and prosperous community, thanks to this questionable development. I can't change the fact that in my mind this was some golden age with positive cultural impact. Hundreds of people moved to the area, and the number of pupils at our school increased significantly. Of course, I loved it. This influx of people is part of the magic I experienced. Today, the number of pupils at my old school is only about half the number it used to be. It is sad, as each area's viability is to a large point dependent on people raising children. As a result, along with my children, I experience the Mývatn district as a community on the defensive and going through a crisis. The tremendous increase in tourism has changed the way of life. When I was growing up, I used to go with my father to the Grjótagjá natural spa, each and every night. There we would meet the other inhabitants having a bath. The farmers would discuss anything concerning their work and the community. It was equivalent to the local pub – except, no one was drunk. Today, the inhabitants go the Mývatn Nature Baths where there are hundreds of visitors at any given moment. All the hiking trails and walkways are also awash with tourists.” Flirting with disaster “In spite of the increase in tourism, the economic growth the locals were hoping for has not happened. The tourists visit during the summer, which means there is a lot of work for approximately three months. During the winter, there is no work, and the locals have to survive on unemployment benefits. The Silicon Factory was shut down in 2004. As a result, a lot of other jobs were lost, and people started to move away. Nowadays, those in power are flirting with the idea of building a new power plant. To me, it is a total anachronism, because of the area's sensitive biosphere. I allow myself to hope the magnificent natural wonders around Lake Mývatn will never by sacrificed for economic growth. Even though the community has changed, the lake and the area surrounding it is still the most beautiful and magical place.

A unique capital city that is both lively and laidback, Reykjavík is home to some of Iceland’s most spectacular tourist destinations, including Harpa—a prismatic concert hall located near the city’s stunning harbor. The structure, which was designed by Danish design company Hanning Larsen Architects in cooperation with renowned Icelandic-Danish designer Ólafur Elíasson, strongly resembles Iceland’s basalt rock formations, and has dazzled visitors and locals alike since it first opened in 2011. While wandering through the building’s spacious foyer, we met American couple Cory Padin and Britaney Acome-Campbell, who decided to take a stopover in Reykjavík on their way to Paris and London. Despite having been in Iceland for just twelve hours, it didn’t take long for this jetlagged couple to realize that the small island nation is a charming and striking place that lives up to its growing international hype. Following a Passion for American Football For Cory and Britaney, residents of Arlington, Virginia, Iceland represents the first stop on an exciting European vacation that will culminate in attending an NFL (National Football League) away game in London. “We haven’t taken a vacation yet this year, and we were thinking how could we make the trip really fun and have different legs involved with it,” says Cory, an employee at a design management firm who plays guitar for the Latin/folk fusion band La Unica in his free time. Positive feedback and recommendations from friends ultimately convinced the couple to look into visiting Iceland. “We kept hearing a lot about Iceland—they promote it a lot in the Washington D.C. area…Some of our friends went and then we found some really affordable flights here…We definitely thought this was going to be an amazing place. We like doing outdoorsy stuff, as well as learning about new places and new cultures.” Britaney recently completed her second degree in Health Science and Human Performance and plans on becoming a physical therapist. She most looks forward to exploring Iceland’s otherworldly nature and relaxing in some of the nation’s soothing geothermal pools. “We definitely want to go to the Blue Lagoon…our plan is to rent a car for a couple of days and take the Golden Circle Tour ourselves,” she says. “We don’t mind guided tours, or things like that, but we also like to venture out and do things on our own, to see some waterfalls—awesome stuff like that.” Cory, who shares Britaney’s passion for independent exploration, smiles and nods in agreement. Cold Country, Warm Welcome Opting to rent a room from a local instead of booking a hotel, Cory and Britaney received a generous welcome from their Icelandic host, who insisted on picking them up by car at the BSÍ bus terminal instead of making them walk to their destination. “The people here have been really friendly so far,” Cory explains. “Our host is amazing and was telling us about the legendary troll Grýla and her thirteen children—the Christmas Yule Lads—as well as other Icelandic traditions. It was great.” After taking a short nap to recover from jetlag, Cory and Britaney hit the ground running and started exploring the city, wanting to make the most of the four days they’re spending in Iceland. “I like that the city is really quaint, and you’re able to get to things pretty quickly,” Britaney says. “Everything’s so accessible; there are a lot of different shops in the area. The place where we’re staying is fairly close to the water, so we can walk along the ocean and see things that we normally would not have seen.” Worth a Return Visit “Don’t let the cold scare you away.” That’s Cory’s advice to anyone who might be indecisively considering a trip to Iceland. Although both Cory and Britaney are natives of Buffalo, New York—a city known for its brutal winters—the couple believes that the cold and cloudy weather is no reason to miss out on Reykjavík and the vibrant adventures that await travelers here. “When are you going to have a chance to come again?” Britney asks, smiling. She thinks that Iceland, though off the beaten track, is a friendly place for even the most reluctant tourists to visit. “I will definitely recommend the city to other people,” Cory confirms. “Everything has been spot on with descriptions about how beautiful it is.” The couple has already been thinking about how they will return to Iceland in the coming months: “Now that it’s a bit more affordable flying from Baltimore, we’d like to come back this summer when the days are longer. I definitely think we’ll return soon.”

Every year, Iceland Airwaves attracts bands and solo artists from around the world who consistently push and challenge the boundaries of music. Iceland is home to groundbreaking artists like Björk, Mammút and Sigur Rós, making it the ideal location for a cutting-edge musical event where the unconventional is conventional and innovation is the star of the show. We found husband and wife Sven and Julia Jordan—two indie-music enthusiasts from Hannover, Germany—lounging in the halls of Harpa Concert Hall, waiting for the next line-up to begin. They described Airwaves to us as a “unique festival in a unique country filled with unique and interesting people.” Absorbing the Entire Experience While some tourists travel to Airwaves to see a particular act, Sven and Julia simply wanted to immerse themselves in the entire Airwaves experience in hopes of discovering new musicians and bands. “We visited Iceland two years ago out of curiosity, on vacation,” Sven explains, while sitting on one of Harpa’s stylish square-shaped couches. “After our first trip, we decided to book tickets to Airwaves and just wanted to come and check out the whole event. We didn’t have any artist in mind beforehand.” Julia, who works as a graphic designer in Germany, grew fond of one Icelandic artist’s music during her current stay in Rekjavík. “I loved Máni Orrason,” she says enthusiastically. “We saw him perform both on-venue here at Harpa and off-venue at Bíó Paradís. He was fantastic.” The couple also attended concerts by local artists Axel Flóvent—a folk musician from the northern fishing village of Húsavík—Icelandic rock band For a Minor Reflection, and Sóley, an up-and-coming Icelandic singer/songwriter, whose work has been praised internationally for its quirky, dark, surrealistic sounds. Sven and Julia decided to take a break from the city in the middle of their stay, embarking on the staple Golden Circle tour, which takes tourists to the legendary Geysir, the breathtaking national park Þingvellir, and the mighty Gullfoss waterfall. “Iceland has fascinating nature,” Sven says. “On our previous trip to Iceland, we travelled for a week around the Ring Road, stopped by the glacial lagoon in the south (Jökulsárlón), and enjoyed seeing the puffins along the way as well.” And, of course, the couple could not leave Iceland this time around without stopping by the Blue Lagoon spa for an afternoon of relaxation and rejuvenation! Embracing the Unconventional Both Julia and Sven give Airwaves a rave review, although they readily admit that the festival won’t appeal to every traveler. “It depends on the person and his or her musical tastes,” Julia explains. Sven adds in agreement: “The festival is great. You have to really like indie music and be willing to keep an open mind. A lot of the music here is pretty unique.” Iceland Airwaves has come a long way since its humble premiere in 1999, which took place in an airplane hangar at Reykjavík Airport. The now-iconic music festival continues to serve as one of Iceland’s many forums for creativity and ingenuity, as well as a launching pad for fresh, innovative musical talent.

The vivacious Eliza Reid is very much her own woman; an entrepreneur, a writer, a mother of four, with a Master’s degree in modern history from Oxford University – and quite an asset to her husband As the Icelanders prepare to elect their next president in six weeks time, surveys already show Guðni Th. Jóhannesson to be a clear favorite, with 70% support in a recent poll. A well-grounded, no-nonsense family man with a fantastic sense of humor, it came as little surprise to meet his wife, the Canadian-born, Eliza Reid. One couldn't help but think: What a perfect match! Eliza was born in the beautiful city of Ottawa to a teacher and a homemaker sporting Scottish ancestry. At the age of ten, Eliza and her family moved to a hobby farm just outside the city where they raised sheep (Icelandic sheep as a matter of fact), chickens and turkeys. Eliza and her two younger brothers were raised there, surrounded by working farmers in a 160-year-old farmhouse where her parents are still living. After completing a bachelor's degree in international relations at Trinity College, University of Toronto, Eliza left for England to pursue a master's degree in modern history at St. Antony's College, Oxford University. And, as fate would have it, meet her future husband from Iceland. When asked how they met, the answer reveals a resourceful lady who knows her own mind. Eight tickets in a cup "Our names were drawn together for a blind date," says Eliza. "Well, that is the short version. Guðni was studying for his doctor’s degree in history and I for my master's degree. At the time, we were having a fundraiser for the rowing team – where we were both rowing. The guys on the team all had these cups with their names on them, all arranged in a row. The girls got tickets with their names and were supposed to put them in different cups. The guys would then draw one ticket from their cup and ask the lucky girl out on a date. I had ten tickets and instead of putting them into ten different cups I put eight of them into Guðni's. I liked him a lot and thought I would tilt the balance a little in my favor. I refrained from putting all ten of my tickets into his cup, as I didn't want him to think I was some crazy stalker. Well, he drew one of my tickets and took me out to this very nice Italian restaurant the very next day. I was duly impressed. I had expected a kebab or something simple. We were, after all, students." Life is not about looking back Twenty years on, Eliza is living in Iceland and might be on her way to becoming the mistress of Bessastaðir, the presidential residence. When asked if she misses Canada, she says she would naturally see more of her family if she were living in Canada. "After living most of my adult life in Europe, and thereof thirteen years in Iceland I have come to cherish my Canadian heritage. But, the world is so small it 's hard to miss anything. I can watch the Canadian news, read the Canadian papers, be in close contact with family and friends via the Internet. Anyway, life is not about looking back. You make your choices, get on with life and enjoy what you've got. With four children at the age of 8, 6, 4 and 2, I have a lot to enjoy. My life is here and I love it." But, what was her reaction to the idea of Guðni becoming the next President of Iceland? "People have jokingly mentioned to Guðni for a long time that he should put his name forward to becoming president. Until now, he hasn't taken it seriously. But, I think it is great. Guðni is straightforward and fair, and I think he would be a terrific president. Of course, it was a joint decision, and I totally support him. We have different personalities but the same values and priorities. We are both very grounded and complement each other." Carving out a career Since moving to Iceland in 2003, Eliza has been quite prolific. She has been the editor of Icelandair Stopover, Icelandair's in-flight magazine, since 2012. For some years, she was a staff writer and a freelance writer at Iceland Review (a quarterly specialist publication on Iceland) a freelance writer for Reykjavík Grapevine and Atlantica (the former in-flight magazine for Icelandair) from 2005-2008. Eliza's primary interest is travel writing, and she has published numerous travel features and contributed to several guidebooks. In April 2014, she was named a Top Travel Guide Contributor by TripAdvisor's FlipKey blog. She is also a regular commentator on Icelandic current affairs for foreign media. In 2008, Eliza launched her own company, Dudo, providing services as an editor, writer, and marketing consultant and has, in fact, been a marketing consultant for many of Iceland's largest organizations, as well as a project manager for successful international conferences in Reykjavík. In 2014, Eliza launched her next project, Iceland Writers Retreat, which has been immensely successful and popular http://www.icelandwritersretreat.com. Here to stay Eliza and Guðni moved to Iceland in 2003, after he finished his Ph.D. from Oxford and five years after they met. "I had resigned from my job in England," says Eliza. "I had no job in Iceland, I didn't know the language and had no connections. So I thought I might as well have no money either, and I went on a four-month trip around Russia, and Central and Southeast Asia. Meanwhile, Guðni was here in Iceland finding us a place to live. We bought a flat on Hverfisgata in the center of Reykjavík. I wanted to live in the center with easy access to cafés and restaurants and all sorts of happenings. I had visited Iceland several times before moving here. We had traveled around the country, and I had seen a fair bit of it. But, it is always different when you finally move, especially as I wasn't moving to see how it goes. I was moving here to stay. Guðni had a young daughter he had missed a lot while studying in England and he knew that as soon as his studies were finished he would return to Iceland to be as close to her as possible. So, it was never a question of whether we moved back to Iceland." At the time, Eliza and Guðni didn't have any children of their own, which gave Eliza time to shape her own future in Iceland. "It was important to me to be here as myself, not just as Guðni's wife. I'd worked in marketing before and wanted to get a job on my own merits, not through connections. Three days after arriving here I saw an ad for a marketing person in Morgunblaðið, the daily newspaper. I applied and got the job. I arrived here in August and two weeks later started studying Icelandic at the University of Iceland’s School of Continuing Education. It was an intensive course with lectures eight hours a week. After a year, I had gained a fair basis to speak the language. Through my job and Icelandic language studies, I built up a network with people who are still my friends." Learning the language Of course, Eliza's knowledge of the Icelandic language is excellent. When complimented, she says: "Well, from the start my mother-in-law, bless her, insisted on speaking Icelandic with me – which was immensely helpful. I also told people I met I was learning the language so, would they, please, speak to me in Icelandic. Gradually, it paid off. At the beginning when I was starting to speak very basic Icelandic it felt silly, but you have to go through it. You make a lot of mistakes, but you just have to get it out. You learn languages in stages." Eliza and Guðni were engaged when they moved to Iceland and married in Canada in 2004. "I proposed to him, as a matter of fact," says Eliza. "I didn't want to beat about the bush, drop hints or anything. I am a direct person. It was quite evident that we would get married if I moved with him to Iceland, so I proposed. It wasn't a feminist thing or competition. If he had beaten me to it, then fine, but this is what happened." Career and family life In 2006, Eliza went to West Africa for two months while Guðni was writing a book and then they started having children "in a rapid succession," to use Eliza’s own words. Their children are Duncan Tindur (b. 2007), Donald Gunnar (b. 2009), Sæþór Peter (b. 2011) and Edda Margrét (b. 2013). "I had no ambition when I was growing up to get married and have four children," says Eliza. "You can't do that in Canada unless you are a homemaker or, say, a partner in a successful law firm and able to hire a nanny. Iceland is the best country in the world to have both a career and a big family. You can work full-time and be involved in your children's activities." When asked how it would affect her children if they were raised at the president's children at Bessastaðir, Eliza replies: "It would be a unique opportunity for them. If we were in a big country, like the US, it would be quite a different concept to run for the head of state. Here, I am not worried about people being mean to them. If Guðni became president, they would have the opportunity to meet all kinds of different people, and it would be interesting exposure. Guðni and I are very grounded people, and our kids would not live in luxury. They would have a lot of exposure but still lead a normal life. The biggest intrusion is that they would have to change schools." A word of advice After living in Iceland for thirteen years, Eliza has traveled all over the country, both on holiday and for her writing. Does she have favorite places in Iceland? "Oh, I have still to drive the two highland roads, but I've been just about everywhere else. As for favorite places, no, it would be impossible to choose. There are so many different things to see in Iceland. Indeed, if I were to give advice to those who plan to visit, it would be: Don't try to do everything in a week. It is much better to pick one area to focus on, and then come back to see more. And don't buy bottled water. The tap water is the best in the world."

Oddný Harðardóttir MP still lives in her childhood home Garður, the town on the northernmost tip of the Reykjanes Peninsula is a curious place. At first sight, it looks nondescript and lacking in natural wonders. But, don't be fooled. This is where the boundary between land and sea gets a bit blurred; where you can sit by the shoreline with the wind in your hair and the raging ocean at your feet; where you find the most amazing Northern Lights and the most glorious sunsets. Here is where the politician Oddný Harðardóttir MP, was born and raised. Here is where she still lives and has raised her own children. But why? "Well, when my mother died years ago, my sisters and I just couldn't envision selling her house," says Oddný. "After finishing my University degree I was a teacher in North Iceland. My plans were never to move back to Garður. But, I did. I moved into my mother's house, and I still live there. The decisive factor in my life was 80 square meters of concrete." An isolated place Oddný says life in Garður has changed quite a bit since then. "When I was growing up, Garður was an isolated place, but as children we were not bothered by that. The local Housewives' Club provided recreation and pastime for us, children. Then we had the Children's Guild where we were assigned roles and responsibilities. I was their chaplain. It wasn't just Garður that was different. We were living in a different world. The school and the music school (in the nearby town of Keflavík) were at the centre of our world. There were no curfews at night. During summer, we would play all kinds of ball games. During winter, we would play in the snow and go skating on the pond. We would stay out as long as we liked, or until we got tired. Then we would head home and go to sleep. Garður was our whole world, and we had no need to go anywhere else. There was hardly any communication with the outside world. When I started college in Reykjavík at the age of sixteen, I didn't know the city at all. I never knew whether to turn left or right when leaving a shop on Laugavegur, the main shopping street.” We felt safe “My mother worked in the local fish factory. All my friends' mothers worked there. After school, we would go directly to the factory to see our mothers. Soon we were given odd jobs and tasks at the factory. I was eleven when I started to do a bit of work there. It was by no means child slavery. We really wanted to work there. We felt safe there. Times have changed, especially as access to education is concerned. There is more interconnection between the towns of the Reykjanes Peninsula, which is fortunate. There is often quite a lot of bullying in smaller communities like Garður. I used to say it was crazy raising children in such a small community. There is more diversity in larger communities. Garður, for example, is a soccer community. If you don't play soccer, you are isolated. One of my daughters played soccer, and she was fine with endless parades of friends. The other one did music and gymnastics, a bit more solitary recreations. She didn't start to bloom until she moved on to college in our neighborhood town, Keflavík.” Cure for restlessness “Still, my roots are in Garður. My parents were born and raised there, as well as my grandparents. When I visit the churchyard, I can track my family decades, almost centuries back. Whenever I spot my village returning home from work I start to breath easily. The funny thing, though, is that I have never worked there, apart from three years when I was their mayor. To me, the area by the lighthouses is the most precious place on earth. When my head is whirling, it is the perfect place to sit down on the shore or sheltered by the old lighthouse. Simply sit there and breath until my mind is at ease. It is perfect." Oddný was mayor from 2006 until 2009 when she became a member of parliament. Her party was working towards improving the environment and creating a healthier community for children and teenagers. She didn't quite see her dreams come true. During the election a year after she left as a mayor, the Independent party returned as the local government majority – with quite a different agenda. The cultural town Still, Oddný loves her hometown and the vast extracurricular activities it offers. "We have an unbelievable number of clubs. The Lions Club, the Kiwanis Club, the Women's League, quite some choirs and the Soccer Club for most age groups. The Women's League is especially robust. It has one hundred members, which is quite a lot in such a small community. In fact, it is one of the oldest Women's League in Iceland. We claim to be the Reykjanes Peninsula's cultural town. It developed through farmers who were also fishermen. They were proud owners of their land. The vicarage for the whole area was in Garður. Early on the vicar, Sigurður Sívertsson built an elementary school here. It is the third oldest school in Iceland. He was a great promoter of education, and when people couldn't afford to pay for their children's education, he simply gave them the money." Different kind of beauty One doesn't often hear people praise Garður for its natural beauty. Some even claim it is ugly. Oddný doesn't agree. "We have this most beautiful coastline with the foreland where the lighthouses are located. Then we have a vast and wonderful moors. True, we do not have mountains and waterfalls, but we have an amazing birdlife. Every year we have Icelandic and foreign bird watchers flocking our town to observe the birds in their natural habitat – up close on the trenches. When we expanded the school a few years back, we were mindful of its uniqueness. We added a biology room with direct access to the trenches to make it easy for the kids to observe the birds and other fauna, i.e. the insect live. We wanted them to take notice of this biosphere and learn to understand it. When I was growing up, it was just there. Fortunately, it is still there."