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- Látrabjarg is a 14 km long cliff in the West Fjords
Bjargtangar is the westernmost part of Látrabjarg and Iceland Látrabjarg is not an easy place to describe, and one must experience it to really understand its scale. It is a vast natural wonder consisting of multiple layers of hard rocks formed in repeated eruptions over millions of years. And ever since, it has been battling the ocean and its strong and unforgiving currents to defend this remote part of Iceland. Currents here are so unpredictable and strong that no captain in his right mind dares to come anywhere close to the cliffs. If the current grabs your vessel and brings it to the cliffs, you can be sure that it will be smashed into pieces in a matter of days and sometimes even hours. It is a monument to the two strong and long-lasting forces that constantly fight each other in Iceland: The magma luring close to the surface contributes to the land with continual eruptions, and the ocean breaks everything apart it can throw its waves at. These are the powerful forces you need to keep in mind when you stand on the top of Bjargtangar cliffs, the westernmost part of Iceland, trying to avoid dizziness amid millions of screaming birds of various species. The landscape’s mere size can make you lightheaded. The highest point of Látrabjarg is measured at 444 meters Altogether, it is a 14 km long cliff along the shoreline from the cove Keflavík westward to Bjargtangar. The highest point is measured at 444 meters. Standing by the edge fills you with a whirling sensation, which doesn't seem to fade even though you stay at the top for a while. It is an intimidating feeling even for people who are not scared of heights. And little do the non-stop cries of birds help fight this feeling. But without a doubt, it offers a stunning sight of monstrous cliffs. When you are at Látrabjarg, you will feel as if you might as well be at the edge of the world. It consists of four cliffs, Keflavíkurbjarg, Látrabjarg, Bæjarbjarg, and Breiðavíkurbjarg. Indeed, the experience will stay with you for a long time afterward. If you are near the edge with a camera pressed to your face, don't move until you have a clear sight and have moved the camera away from your eyes and nose. Unfortunately, Bjargtangar has witnessed some heartbreaking accidents by the cliffs, and at the edge, so it is not as safe as it seems. One of the largest bird colonies in the world Látrabjarg is an excellent place for birdwatching The cliffs are home to millions of birds, including puffins, northern gannets, guillemots, and razorbills. Látrabjarg is, indeed, Europe's largest bird cliff. The area is free of the very few predators we have in Iceland, like foxes, making the birds quite fearless. In particular, the puffins, frequently venture into the upper, grassy parts of the cliffs, digging deep holes to build their own comfortable living quarters. For centuries, the cliff had been a food source, and people used to be rappelled down from the edge each year, adding birds and eggs to their protein. Látrabjarg is a fantastic place to observe birds in their natural habitat. But please, understand the danger involved if you try to approach the edge. Down at the bottom of the cliffs are seal communities. So, for many living creatures, it is a sanctuary rather than a hostile terrain. Hiking is always the best and most rewarding way to travel in Iceland. Látrabjarg is a large bird conlony Hiking along the edge is like being on top of the world. But, be careful and don't cross the white line painted on the sheer side. The dizziness may result in one fatal misstep. If you want to observe and photograph the birds, lay down on your stomach with only your head over the edge. There are also some hiking trails in the southwestern part of the West Fjords. One of the most interesting among them is the one by the cliff. Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Hallormsstaðaskógur small wood in the East Fjords
Today, Hallormsstaðaskógur is the largest wooded area in Iceland One of the settlers in Iceland during the settlement era, over 1100 years ago, claimed that the island was covered in a forest from the shore to the mountains, as it is phrased in the Sagas. His claim has always been mind-boggling to the Icelanders who can't help but wonder what happened to their trees. Some say the wind swept them away. Others argue the sheep gnawed them away when the farmers had their livestock roaming the heaths and moors and mountains all summer long. At some point, it was concluded that the cold little island had almost no trees. The few that had survived since the settlement were on a farm called Hallormsstaður in the East Region. At the turn of the nineteenth century, the farm was fenced, and livestock was banned, most importantly sheep. Around the middle of the century, Icelanders started to plant new trees at the farm. All kinds of trees were imported from other countries to test their survival skills in Icelandic weather. The size of the farm has increased, and it is now the most extensive wood in Iceland. It is difficult to define it as the 800 hectares (2000 acres) can hardly be labeled as a forest. So, trees are not something you travel to Iceland to see unless you are looking for the smallest forest in Europe. East Region on map of Iceland After our trees had disappeared a new plan was implemented Hallormsstaðaskógur is situated by the lake Lagarfljót Whatever the reason for the disappearance of trees, a plan was launched, and forestation became the new rave. Trees were planted in crucial locations in addition to Hallormsstaður. It became an official policy in 1899 when the Parliament passed a law to protect what was left of forest in the area. The locals were instructed to shape up and plant trees. Today, Hallormsstaðaskógur is the largest wooded area in Iceland. Although we became almost obsessed with the idea of planting trees in the seventies and the eighties, the step towards renewing our former tree glory is far from being reached. The policy has been disputed in recent years, and some would claim that one of our advantages is not having many trees but, instead, a beautiful view of mountains and valleys. A great location for a forest Atlavík camping at Hallormsstaðaskógur On the other hand, Hallormsstaðaskógur is located south of the town of Egilsstaðir. It is situated by the lake Lagarfljót and has recently become popular as an outdoor paradise. The climate in the area is quite convenient. It is breezy rather than windy. Summers are usually warmer and sunnier than the rest of the island. When I traveled through Hallormsstaðaskógur in the summer of 2021, it was the warmest day recorded at 29 centigrade. In winter, the snow covers the entire flora, sheltering the roots from any frost damage. Hallormsstaðaskógur is a beautiful place to visit with many interesting hiking trails and among the most beautiful camping sites in Iceland, in Atlavík cove by the lake. Here, you can also see many samples of trees that grow in Iceland and get the best information about what trees survived and which are the most popular. You can also form an opinion if Iceland has a forest? To find Hallormsstaður, you need to take road nr. 95 south from the town of Egilsstaðir and then turn east on road nr. 931 and you can't miss it. Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Krossneslaug geothermal pool in Strandir West Fjords
The beautiful and interesting destination Krossneslaug geothermal pool Iceland has many natural pools because of the abundant hot and cold water in the ground, blending in places out in nature. There are also pools where boiling water emerging from the ground mixes with cold spring water before it is streamed into the pool. Icelanders have tapped into these wonderful natural resources for centuries. Sometimes the pools are in natural surroundings, such as Landmannalaugar and Strútslaug in the Highland, and sometimes we construct nice swimming pools and hot tubs. The natural pool at Krossnes on the east coastline of Strandir in the West Fjords peninsula is one of the most interesting pools in Iceland. It is a remote location; the surroundings are stunning, with mountains on one side and the ocean on the other. The pool and dressing rooms are well-maintained; showers allow for a long shower, and the whole experience near the Arctic Circle is just a joy. Although rare, sometimes whales from the pool are spotted swimming by in the ocean. Not often, but when it happens, it is dreamlike. Krossneslaug and the drive to Norðurfjörður Krossneslaug pool is a great place for relaxation The geothermal pool at Krossnes on Strandir is a bit north of the fjord Norðurfjörður near the Arctic Circle. It is one of Iceland's most spectacular and unique destinations. It is a very peaceful and relaxing environment with beautiful landscapes. However, the drive is rather long and challenging, and the gravel road nr. 643 is both grueling and, at some points, a bit scary. It is a 90-kilometer drive from the small village of Hólmavík and the road nr. 61. Unfortunately, you need to drive the same road back, as there is no possibility of a ring road option here. From the middle of May until the middle of September, it is accessible by most cars, small and large, and anyone can drive this road, but caution is needed, especially if you find yourself enveloped in a dark fog that often lays its dark hand over the area. But if you get a clear day, the whole drive is exquisitely scenic by the beautiful coast, through stunning fjords, enormous mountains, and steep slopes consistently towering over your car. But if you want something remote, exotic, and different, Krossneslaug is the place. The pool is, of course, very relaxing and drains the stress of your drive. It is also an excellent place to prepare for a good night's sleep in a tent, a caravan, or hotel, not to mention preparing you emotionally for the drive back. A two- or three-day stop in Norðurfjörður is recommended. Setting up the flag in Krossneslaug pool in West Fjords If you choose to take this challenge, you should consider a day or two in the land. It offers exciting hiking trails and a beautiful landscape. The stronger your car is, the more you can see, so I would recommend an excellent 4X4 car here so you can drive to the more remote areas and hike to your heart’s content. It is a stunning place for photographers with its stacks and pillars by the shore and incredible mountains and valleys. It is a paradise for birdwatchers also, with a large variety of species. Convenient accommodation is available at Urðatindur and a good campsite. You can even dine at a nice restaurant and enjoy some delicious Icelandic cuisine at the restaurant/café Kaffi Norðurfjörður. Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Norðurfjörður fjord and Trékyllisvík cove at Strandir
A view to Trékyllisvík (left) and Norðurfjörður (right) in Strandir West Fjords Both Norðurfjörður and Trékyllisvík are small communities; each comprises a small cluster of houses at Strandir in the West Fjords and part of the same municipality of Árneshreppur. Although this municipality is the least populated in Iceland, it has been around for a long time. A part of Strandir, it is reserved for the especially curious tourists. With a rich blend of history, phenomenal landscape, turmoils, and isolation, the place is simply alluring and magnetic. So, it warrants the attention of travelers from around the world. Norðurfjörður Norðurfjörður tiny hamlet in Norðurfjörður fjord at Strandir Norðurfjörður fjord and the tiny hamlet with the same name are as remote as they can get in Iceland. In the fjord, there is a small cove with very few houses but with a history that goes back as far as the settlement of Iceland. Although the surrounding region is quite large, it is scarcely populated. In the winter, the only public transport linking the area to the rest of the world is one or two weekly flights from Reykjavík to Gjögur—another tiny cluster of houses close by and part of the municipality Árneshreppur. In summer, on the other hand, you can reach Norðurfjörður and Trékyllisvík by driving along the Strandir coastline. While driving, you will pass by many interesting places and at the end of your drive, guesthouses and campsites, a tiny grocery store, a swimming pool, and an excellent café. You can say that the whole place comes alive in the summer. Þrjátíudalastapi (thirtydollarrock) north of Krossneslaug pool in Norðurfjörður fjord Moreover, unlike in the winter, a drive to Norðurfjörður is much less complicated in the summer. The fjord and its surrounding areas have many interesting places of attraction. But the number one is undeniably Krossaneslaug—the most popular geothermal swimming pool in the Westfjords. The swimming pool is located on a black pebble beach near the shoreline. With nothing ahead but the infinite blue of the Arctic Ocean, one may feel like one is sitting on the edge of the world. Urðatindur accommodation and Ferðafélag Íslands huts and camping site With its one grocery store, Norðurfjörður is the last place where a tourist may stop to stock up before heading off on a hiking trip to Hornstrandir, the ultimate hiking challenge in Iceland. Norðurfjörður basically serves as a basecamp for this exotic and difficult hiking adventure. If you are interested in the hike, you can contact the Iceland Touring Association, which is in charge of organizing hikes to Hornstrandir and has a hut in Norðurfjörður. Norðurfjörður is as far as you can get with an ordinary car at Strandir shoreline. But if you have an excellent 4X4, you can drive north to the next fjord Ingólfsfjörður fjord and even farther. However, take your time before heading off. The landscape surrounding the small settlement in Norðurfjörður is very unpredictable. Everything is vast, except us mortals and our buildings. A stroll on the beach north of the Krossneslaug swimming pool to view the sunset is a good idea for a relaxed evening during bright summer nights. Tourists can take a hike during the day to reach up to Mt. Kálfatindur peak to experience a great view of the surrounding landscapes. Trékyllisvík Trékyllisvík birdlife Trékyllisvík is a cove in the south of Norðurfjörður in Strandir. It is surrounded by vast and towering mountains. Interestingly, Trékyllisvík is well-known as the place of emergence of an era of witch craze in Iceland—in 1654, the villagers and the local sheriff burnt three alleged witches at the stake. The people believed them to be responsible for, and then found them guilty of, the scandalous behavior among some women at mass in the Árnes church. Trékyllisvík has a reputation for being the harsh and exposed backbone of the Westfjords. This might be due to the fact that the whole community almost starved to death at the end of the seventeenth century, with at least 120 deaths in two years. This was a massive blow to the small population of Trékyllisvík at the time, and they most likely never recovered. Nonetheless, it has been a thriving fishing community for centuries and at times has generated excellent incomes for its people as compared to other places in Iceland. Today, Trékyllisvík is still a lovely community with a primary school and a church with an old churchyard. The cove is unusual and inhabits a wide variety of wildlife. On any given day, you might spot seals and birds of numerous species in their natural habitats. Creativity is second nature to the locals, quite apparent in Kört with a museum/gallery that sells exquisite local artifacts made of driftwood, stones, wood, and textiles. The museum/gallery also has paintings and drawings that are based on the region’s tumultuous history. Hydroelectric Power Plant or Natural Wonders? Despite tonnes of startup failures throughout centuries, entrepreneurs are still prepared to bet on Strandir for their investments; currently, electricity is supposed to produce the profit. Since the last century, there has been an interest in building a hydroelectric power plant on the backland of the fjord Ófeigsfjörður, north of Norðurfjörður fjord. In recent decades, the interest has been translated into a plan. A private company Vesturverk is the creator of this plan and has applied for permission to start the project. This has made Árneshreppur a center of the debate: should the preservation of nature, rivers, canyons, and waterfalls be prioritized over the economic advantages of a power plant? This has split the community of this tiny municipality into two, leaving the project at a standstill. Árnesstapar sea stacks are explained in folklore as trolls with their dog caught up in sunlight and turned to rock Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Reykhólar tiny hamlet in West Fjords
Reykhólar hamlet played an important role in Iceland's history for many centuries Reykhólar is a tiny hamlet or village in the southeast part of the West Fjords, almost hidden from the main road, and rarely mentioned anywhere today. However, it has a unique place in Iceland’s history. For centuries, the Reykhólar farm was considered to be one of the most valuable estates in the country not only since it was an excellent farmland but also because it owned more than 300 islands in the large Breiðafjörður bay; islands that added huge value to the farm for many centuries. As a result, many chieftains and wealthy families lived at Reykhólar and owned the farm throughout Iceland’s history; some of them with a bigger ego than the estate itself. Generally, it was a part of a farm conglomerate where one family owned many valuable farms. The small village is placed in a wonderful surrounding with a spectacular landscape. Therefore, it is not surprising that wealthy individuals choose the place as their main home. Guðmundur ríki (the wealthy): one of the most famous Houses at Reykhólar hamlet in West Fjords In 1423, Guðmundur’s father drowned and he inherited an unprecedented wealth. In the same year, he married one the wealthiest women of that time. Taking advantage of their combined wealth and resources, he yielded assets by carrying out business with English merchants who were eager to trade with Iceland at the time. In the next two decades, Guðmundur became the wealthiest man in Iceland and is often considered to be the wealthiest Icelander in history. Although he was clever to increase his fortune, Reykhólar farm was always the most important aspect of his venture. So, when you visit Reykhólar, you must look around when you stand in the small hamlet by the church and view your surrounding in the light of a very different historical time—a time when most of the transportation, communication, and trading were carried out via the sea. This will provide you with a better understanding of Reykhólar´s value in the past. It is hard to believe that throughout history it was often considered to be one of the most important places in the entire country. A tiny community providing the basic services The single largest employer in Reykhólar is the Kelp factory Currently, Reykhólar is a tiny village comprising around forty homes and approximately 120 residents. Similar to many towns, villages, and smaller communities around the country, Reykhólar manages to provide good basic service to its residents and the Reykhólasveit municipality, the surrounding rural area. There is a preschool, elementary and middle school, and a library. Since the town boasts geothermal heating, there is also a swimming pool. Like most tiny villages, Reykhólar owns a sports center as well as a community center. A first stop while visiting West Fjords in Iceland During its most glorious times, trading was carried out with vessels docking outside the farm The single largest employer in Reykhólar is the Kelp factory that has operated in Reykhólar for decades. The production from the factory is sold to the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetics industry. Despite its history, Reykhólar never developed into a fishing town or a trading post. During its most glorious times, trading was carried out with vessels docking outside the farm and transactions were made on small rowing boats between the farm and the ships. Others mostly work in the service industry such as schools, care for the elderly, and the growing tourist industry. Reykhólar provides the usual service to tourists traveling in Iceland. It includes accommodation, a camping site, a gas station, a small restaurant, and a café as the bare minimum during the summer months. Therefore, due to these various reasons, Reykhólar is an interesting first stop while visiting the West Fjords. Reykhólar swimming pool Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Rauðisandur red shell beach in the West Fjords
The color of the beach, derived from scallops Rauðisandur (Red Sand Beach) is a ten-kilometer stretch of a shell beach on Iceland's south coast of the West Fjords (Vestfirðir). The color of the beach, derived from scallops, is indeed red—at least in certain conditions. When the living organ in a scallop dies, the shells are broken down to bits and pieces by the ocean's strong current and thrown to the shore. It is quite a sight to see on sunny days, as it glitters like a coast covered in diamonds. Sunny days are by no means the ruling weather in this part of Iceland, but don't let that stop you from going to Rauðisandur. This fantastic beach is like an instrument being played by high and low tides and lights and shadows. The sands are equally impressive on rainy days, constantly changing colors from red to yellow to white to red to black—with striking hues ranging throughout this magnificent display. Rauðisandur has many qualities that we love to experience on our travel. It is also a peaceful and photogenic place: Photographers, don't hesitate to bring your gear. Although it takes only a few hours to drive from Reykjavík today, it was a very isolated place a few decades ago. First settlers were on a Christian mission in a land of paganism At the time of settlement, walruses lived at Rauðisandur Rauðisandur, like many lowland stripes by the shore, fjords, and valleys in the West Fjords, is mentioned in the famous Book of Settlement (Landnámabók, written in the 13th century in Icelandic). Many of the settlers in the region came from the Hebrides in Scotland and were on a Christian mission with Örlygur Hrappsson, who first arrived at and named the Patreksfjörður Fjord. For centuries, people have farmed this land and provided their families with food from rich fishing grounds in the Breiðafjörður Bay. At the time of settlement, walruses lived at Rauðisandur, and one could produce valuable commodities from hunting them. Although isolated, it was a good place for survival in Iceland and always far away from the difficulties caused by volcanos. Take care on the steep road down the slope to Rauðisandur One great way to enjoy Rauðisandir is the outdoor seating at the wonderful café You need to take extra care when you drive the road from the Patreksfjörður Fjord. On the south side, the gravel road leading to the beach goes through a steep and narrow mountain pass, with 180° turns and no rails. Take your time to drive down the slope and even stop to enjoy the spectacular view. On reaching the lowland, you will find one of the most wonderful cafés on the beach when you turn west. Rauðisandur is also a place of inflammatory folklore and stories. Apart from tales of trolls and ghostly figures, Rauðisandur is the area where Iceland's most legendary act of crime, The Murders at Sjöundá, happened. It is a true story of brutal murders, darkness, intrigue, betrayal, adultery, and passion. The whole tragedy was described in one of the best novels written by an Icelandic writer: Svartfugl , by Gunnar Gunnarsson. A literary masterpiece, it was first published in Denmark in 1929 and was a best seller for months all over Europe at that time. It is probably one of the first Icelandic crime novels that became a hit. Take a stroll on the beach to enjoy the magnificent Rauðisandur beach From Rauðisandur you have a view to Látrabjarg cliffs Taking a stroll along Rauðisandur is an experience. You can walk to the sand from the café and the Melanes farm, which is probably better. The soft sand and coarse seashell fragments often veil precious objects washed ashore by the sea, even Whalebones or a bottled message! But remember to follow the flow of the tide, as there is a significant difference between low and high tides. Rauðisandur is part of the West Fjords drive and road trip, if you want information about getting there and when to travel to Rauðisandur. The ruins at the farm Sjöundá Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Örlygshöfn valley and golden beach
Museum at Örlygshöfn valley in West Fjords Örlygshöfn Cove is one of Iceland's golden beaches that you only see in the West Fjords and Snæfellsnes Peninsula. These beaches are unlike the many black beaches and black sandy coastlines that most tourists find interesting to visit around the island. The cove is at the mouth of a valley with the same name on the south side of the Patreksfjörður fjord. With golden sands stretching for miles, the sight is stunning, especially on a sunny day. The fjord's waters take on a hue of royal blue and display spectacular scenery. It is an excellent spot for photography, as the lagoon that stretches into the valley is often calm. Located across the fjord from Patreksfjörður town, Örlygshöfn Cove is scarcely populated and has only had three farms in the valley for many centuries. Early settlers that gave the valley its name Örlygshöfn, mentioned in the book of settlement, was first settled by Örlygur Hrappsson more than eleven centuries ago. Örlygur also gave the Patreksfjörður fjord its name in honor of the holy bishop Patrick in the Hebrides, a foster brother of his father. Bishop Patrick provided him with blessed earth and wood for a new church and plenarium. It is a reminder that although paganism was the main religion in Iceland at the time of settlement until the year 1000, many of the settlers were Christian. However, Örlygur did not settle in Örlygshöfn himself: Four of his fellow travelers who did include his brother and foster brothers. Among them were his brother and foster brothers. The valley has been inhabited since. A great stopover when visiting the West Fjords Minjasafn Egils Ólafssonar at Örlygshöfn West Fjords In this small valley, you will find guesthouses, a museum, and a small café. The museum Minjasafn Egils Ólafssoar at the farm Hnjótur is a must-see pit stop. Egill Ólafsson, a farmer at Hnjótur, started gathering artifacts, like clothing, fishing gear, boats and much more, from various places and times around the region from an early age. His efforts developed into a museum. Today, the museum tells a fascinating story about the harsh life and circumstances endured at this remote place on our planet. It speaks of survival and joy among the people who lived through it all by cultivating the land and fishing in the fjord. The road through the valley is also the route to one of the most popular natural wonders in Iceland, the Látrabjarg cliffs. Örlygshöfn is also a good place for horse riding, as the beach provides gorgeous surroundings and a good riding field. Even if you are in a hurry to cast your eyes on Látrabjarg, it will be worth your while to linger around this beautiful cove. Evenings in the Örlygshöfn Valley and fjord A viking ship in front of Egill Ólafsson muserum in Wesf Fjords If you are driving back from Látrabjarg in the bright evening on a clear summer day, go slowly, as this place has the most amazing sunsets. During winter, although it is not a particularly great place to visit due to harsh weather, the display of the northern lights is unparalleled. The Örlygshöfn Cove is a great contrast to the imposing beauty of all the steep mountains, sheer cliffs, and raging surges characteristic of the Westfjords. It is a relaxing place, and you don't need a horse to enjoy it. You can walk along the golden sands and listen to the ocean waves gently caressing the shoreline. It is the right place to take a moment to digest all the largeness born of ice and fire thrown at you. Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Selárdalur valley in Arnarfjörður fjord West Fjords
Having retired from farming at the age of 72 in 1958, Samúel decided to follow his dreams of becoming an artist. Selárdalur valley is one of the Ketildalir valleys on the southern shore of the long Arnarfjörður fjord in Iceland; it is one of the few valleys in the area that is a tourist attraction. There is more than one reason why this valley is worth visiting. Most of the valleys of the fjord Arnarfjörður are small and narrow, with high and steep mountains on three sides. Many of these resemble the small fjords that you see all over the West Fjords, except these are filled with sediments at the bottom and have thus become picturesque valleys. The sediments provide good, nutrient-rich soil for farming; they have been providing an adequate livelihood for people for more than a thousand years, right from the time of settlement. Additionally, many of them host good landing spots for boats by the shoreline, allowing one to take advantage of the rich fishing grounds right in front of the valley. It is an interesting comparison between the fjords along which you drive on the southern side of the Ísafjarðardjúp fjord on your way from Ísafjörður to the Steingrímsfjarðarheiði mountain pass and the fjords on the southern shore of the peninsula named Barðaströnd. Unlike Ketildalir, where you drive along the coast, driving along the fjords takes you right to the bottom of the fjord and then out of its mouth. Selárdalur was a prosperous community for centuries When you arrive at the valley, it isn't easy, at a glance, to know that the community in Selárdalur actually thrived for many centuries. It had two critical prerogatives to its advantage—good-quality farming land and easy access to the ocean. The farmers and their families would work hard on their land, and then the men would gather in their boats to go out fishing, just a short distance from the shoreline. This provided both food and the possibility of trading fish and fish products. More than one hundred people lived here in the late nineteenth century, and everyone prospered. The valley also always served as a valuable parish and had a church and a priest. Heartbreaking events that changed the course of history On 20th September in the year 1900, everything changed. The worst weather in the region's history hit the area mid-morning, just a few minutes after boats had sailed in calm, beautiful weather. Four boats were lost at sea. Thirteen men from the valley lost their lives, leaving eleven widows and twenty-four fatherless children behind. It was a fatal blow for the community; eventually, the valley was deserted in a matter of a few decades. A valley that had been a center stage for the northern part of the West Fjords for centuries. You can only imagine how incomprehensible it must have been for the people living there. The fjord had always been relatively calm, but the hurricane-like weather changed everything in one day—with disastrous consequences. This event is a reminder of the weather’s role in shaping the history of Iceland. Samúel the remarkable artist and his sculptures His buildings, the church, and the house are also considered sculptures and part of the artwork. In the last decades of the 20th century, Selárdalur valley was left with only a handful of people living there. One of them was the novice artist Samúel Jónsson. Having retired from farming at the age of 72 in 1958, Samúel decided to follow his dreams of becoming an artist. He created sculptures from concrete. He would carry sand from the seashore to his farm at Brautarholt, out of which he would then make concrete. His sculptures are still standing and very well preserved. Samúel managed to capture the heart of the Icelanders who have dubbed him "the artist with the infantile heart." His sculptures portray a grotesque but charming resemblance to the lion's fountain in the Alhambra Palace in Spain. His buildings, the church, and the house are also considered sculptures and part of the artwork. In the recent years, a group of admirers have contributed to restoring his work and making it more accessible. The road from Bíldudalur village is also quite good and a fascinating drive by the mountains. For all its wonderful beauty and rich history, a visit to Selárdalur is highly recommended. Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Vatnsfjörður fjord in the Breiðafjörður bay an important part of Icelandic history
Vatnsfjörður fjord, situated along the South shoreline of the West Fjords, Barðaströnd, is a captivating nature reserve deeply intertwined with Icelandic history. This fjord is not merely a picturesque landscape but a significant part of the country's heritage, dating back to the early days of settlement when Iceland was still uninhabited. According to the ancient Book of Settlement of Iceland, Flóki Vilgerðarson, also known as Hrafna-Flóki (Raven-Flóki), holds a prominent place in Icelandic lore as the first Norseman to venture westward in search of this remote island intentionally. Was Flóki the first individual to stay in Iceland for a year During the 9th century, Flóki embarked on his daring journey with three ravens as his companions, relying on these birds to guide him across the vast ocean. As he sailed from the Faroe Islands towards what was then called Garðarshólmi, Flóki released the ravens one by one. The first raven swiftly returned to the Faroe Islands, while the second soared high into the sky, its destination unknown. It was the third raven that faithfully led Flóki to the island he sought, eventually guiding him to the tranquil waters of Vatnsfjörður fjord within the Breiðafjörður bay. Even if you are interested in history, don't skip geology The geology of this region is not just visually striking but also holds a wealth of scientific interest, offering insights into the geological processes that have shaped Iceland over millennia. The rugged cliffs, pristine waters, and diverse flora and fauna create a harmonious tapestry of natural beauty that has captivated visitors for centuries. Or nature, for that matter As visitors explore Vatnsfjörður fjord, they are not only treated to breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape but also have the opportunity to immerse themselves in the rich history that permeates this place. From the pioneering spirit of Flóki Vilgerðarson to the tales of early settlement and exploration, every rock and wave in Vatnsfjörður fjord whispers a story of resilience, discovery, and the enduring bond between Iceland and its natural wonders. A location resembling paradise, rich in plentiful resources. Vatnsfjörður fjord view to Breiðafjörður bay Flóki displayed exceptional foresight in selecting Vatnsfjörður, abundant with lush vegetation, flowing rivers, teeming seas, diverse birdlife, and geothermal resources. It was undoubtedly akin to discovering paradise. Accompanied by his family and friends, Flóki settled in Brjánslækur, basking in the idyllic summer conditions. The land provided plentiful food, the weather was serene, and the surroundings were at their most picturesque during the summer months. The group thrived on the land's bounty, engaging in successful fishing and bird hunting. However, their oversight in preparing for winter left them stranded in a stunning yet harsh environment as cold temperatures and severe storms took hold. Despite enduring the winter, they lost all their livestock due to inadequate hay reserves. Come spring, Flóki gazed upon the frozen Breiðafjörður bay from a hill, prompting him to rename the island Iceland from Garðarshólmi. Vatnsfjörður has remained relatively unchanged over the centuries since Flóki's fateful winter stay. Thus, when exploring the shoreline or trekking the lakeside and hills of the fjord in the summer, one is transported to a landscape reminiscent of the one Flóki and his companions once knew. Fascinating, yet a unique geological specimen. Vatnsfjörður fjord has a great variety of birds The bedrock in the area is part of the Tertiary Basalt Formation, dating back 10 to 13 million years. In addition, the landscape has been shaped and molded by Ice Age glaciers as the mountains in the West Fjords clearly display. It is like the East Fjords, the oldest part of Iceland, and you will find glacial dikes throughout the area as well as natural geothermal pools. Unlike the inland, the highland, Reykjanes Peninsula, and the northwest, no volcanic activity has occurred in this area for millions of years. Therefore, this is the oldest part of Iceland. Stopping and hiking in Vatnsfjörður Evening in Vatnsfjörður in summer view to Snæfellsnes Peninsula Vatnsfjörður is a great place to stop and hike in the West Fjords. It is a good place to halt for the night, both at the hotel and guesthouses in the Flókalundur and Brjánslækur areas. The area also offers many exciting hiking trails and places of interest. With a mild climate and warm summers, Vatnsfjörður sports a magnificent bird life. The Eider Duck is a common sight on the fjord and you will undoubtedly spot the Harlequin duck during May and June. Occasionally sighted are the Sea Eagles and the Gyrfalcon; the Arctic Fox roams the area, and Seals inhabit the reef on the Hörgsnes Peninsula. Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Strandir in the West Fjords is a perfect road trip for a two-day scenic drive
Strandir has seen its share of human enterprise, where an unprecedented amount of money and resources have been poured into various ventures Strandir is the Icelandic name for the eastern shoreline of the West Fjord peninsula. The name is the plural of the word coast and translates as The Coasts. It is one of the most mysterious parts of Iceland, and has been a sanctuary for otherworldly forces since the time of the country’s settlement. For centuries, the entire region was one of the most isolated parts of Iceland, and I daresay it still qualifies for such a description. It was a place with scarce means for creating a livelihood, limited land to cultivate, steep mountains hard to negotiate, and intractable landforms in general. The area has occasionally had rich resources in the contiguous ocean, which tend to manifest and then disappear without trace or any notice, as if by magic or deception. Last but not the least, the weather in this territory is notoriously harsh and challenging, at the best of times. Strandir is also home to sorcery, illusion, and witchcraft. This could be true even in the 21st century. Strandir is a coastliine on the east side of West Fjords A place of nature and shattered dreams of wealth Strandir has seen its share of human enterprise, where an unprecedented amount of money and resources have been poured into various ventures Oddly, despite all its obvious limitations, Strandir has seen its share of human enterprise, where an unprecedented amount of money and resources have been poured into various ventures like factories and fish processing companies. Unfortunately, people seem only too eager to invest in all the wrong places in this part of Iceland, almost as if they are being trapped into failure. This happened again and again in the late 19th and the 20th centuries, even though communication and transportation were highly challenging. Currently, a flock of optimistic entrepreneurs have for decades been channeling enormous resources into a project of building a tiny hydroelectric power plant, battling an avalanche of obstacles that seem to pop up from the least expected quarters. Despite the interest and resources, however, this venture at Strandir too bears all the signs of turning into a business disaster. Remarkably, though, it is a place where nature seems always to invite and nurture dream merchants, loaded with capital and projects. Yet, all this only makes the region more fascinating. The drive and the road Strandir stunning landscape and scenic drive In recent decades, access to the northernmost part of Strandir which you can reach by road has improved, and driving all the way to Norðurfjörður fjord is relatively easy in summer. It is not a drive anyone should even think of undertaking during winter, as the road is most likely closed for months and slippery even if open. During summer, however, the trip is highly recommended, although it is not an easy drive and requires caution and careful driving; the road is narrow and treacherous, sometimes threading along a steep and rocky slope. You might be apprehensive when you start the drive, but the farther north you travel, the more comfortable you will feel. In contrast to many interesting road trips and drives in Iceland where you tend to drive in a kind of circle, Strandir is a destination from which you need to take the same route back, once you have reached the northernmost end of the road, the fjord Norðurfjörður. What you will see on the Strandir drive On your way you will see by the shore quite a few places choked with driftwood Like the Westfjords Drive, the Strandir Drive is more of an exhilarating experience, rather than a trip to see natural wonders. It is a sojourn into what is still a remote and peaceful part of Iceland, through a magnificent landscape with some stunning views from the tops of mountain passes. You will see tiny hamlets as well as beautiful and impressive fjords. A part of Iceland is still hard to live in, with communication in winter being difficult, and yet it is different in many ways and alluring when you add the region's history to your drive. The road, and the best car and time of year to drive to Strandir Goðafoss waterfall in Bjarnarfjörður fjord in Strandir The whole drive from Hólmavík village to Norðurfjörður fjord is approximately 240 kilometers. Here we account for the approximately 35 kilometers added to take the Drangsnes loop, an interesting detour, but which you only visit on your way to Norðfjörður fjord. The road is, for the most part, a gravel track, of which a large section is narrow and at some points requiring caution, especially when passing vehicles approaching from the opposite direction. If you do to take the Strandir drive, it is a good idea to check the weather, as this part of Iceland experiences considerable precipitation and fog, often reducing visibility below optimum levels while driving to Norðurfjörður. We highly recommend a mid-sized or a 4WD car for this road. It is possible to venture on this road during summer in a small car, even if that is not the most convenient way to travel. When you arrive at Norðurfjörður fjord, you are less than halfway to the Strandir coastline, but driving any farther is close to impossible. Driving back and forth in a day or preferably two days We recommend that you drive north from Hólmavík and start on Road Nr. 61, turning into Road Nr. 643 a few kilometers beyond Hólmavík village. Although that road leads all the way to Norðurfjörður, we recommend the loop, driving by the north shore of Steingrímsfjörður fjord and stopping at Drangsnes, Road Nr. 645. It is not uncommon to see whales in the Steingrímsfjörður fjord. If you must stop, find a good spot where you can park your car. Do not stop the vehicle on the road or the shoulder of the road at any time. That has proven to be very dangerous. Drangsnes is a tiny hamlet with an inviting little pool just by the roadside that you can stop at for a dip, as you drive through the village. The jacuzzi pots are heated with natural geothermal water and located on the shore by the main road, with locker rooms and showers on the other side of the road. In Drangsnes (and here is a well-kept secret in the tourism in Iceland), you can take a boat tour to Grímsey small island in Steingrímsfjörður fjord. This island is the best place in Iceland to see puffins in numbers and close if you are interested in puffins. After Drangsnes, you continue Road Nr. 645 until it merges with Road Nr. 643 again after about 25 kilometers, and head to Norðurfjörður. Svanur, the sorcerer Mysterious places and valleys in the landscape at Strandir West Fjords When you turn into Road Nr. 643, you have reached another fjord, Bjarnarfjörur. Immediately on your left side you pass the farm Svanshóll, home of one of the first settlers in this region. That was around eleven hundred years ago, and he was a famous sorcerer. He is renowned for having used sorcery to deceive a group of men into a thick wall of fog who wanted to get their hands on a man who had murdered his niece's husband for hitting her brutally in the face. His niece Hlalgerður Langbrók is one of the most famous women in Iceland’s early history and literature. Slightly farther up the road is a perfect second stop by the minor river Hallardalsá, near the Goðafoss waterfall. This is a beautiful place to spend some tranquil minutes by the small, lovely Hallardalsárgljúfur canyon. It is a perfect pit stop where you can stretch your legs, taking a short hike up the slope by the canyon for relaxation and photography. The drive along the shoreline Gjögur hamlet at Strandir drive in West Fjords Iceland From Bjarnafjörður, you drive 40 kilometers along the shoreline to Reykjarfjörður fjord and Djúpavík hamlet located at the bottom of the fjord, a place of major ventures and broken dreams. Interestingly, on your way you will see by the shore quite a few places choked with driftwood, flotsam that has drifted from Russia and has been valuable for landowners and farmers here throughout the centuries, although its usefulness today is limited. You can find several places to stop for taking a short walk, either by the shore or a short distance into the small valleys like Asparvík or Kaldbaksdalur. Another great view is from the summit of the mountain pass Veiðileysuháls toward the Veiðileysa fjord. This is an excellent place to stand and wonder how the glacier might have formed the fjords millions of years ago when heavy glacier tongues crawled towards the ocean, scarping through the bedrock, sculpting the mountains and fjords over hundreds of thousands of years. When you reach Reykjarfjörður fjord, Djúpavík tiny village is a great place to stop and see the factory and learn about the unique history of this region. Driving farther up the north coast of Norðurfjörður, you should stop at another tiny hamlet nearby, Gjögur. Here you get an interesting view of the mountains on the south shore of Reykjarfjörður fjord. Here also is located the airstrip, a lifeline for this otherwise inaccessible area during winter. Reaching Norðurfjörður fjord Urðir road where "accidents" stopped when a bishop Guðumundur the good blessed the slope some centuries ago From Gjögur, you head on to tiny Trékyllisvík hamlet, the place that throughout history has been the center for Árneshreppur municipality. Trékyllisvík is another excellent spot for a walk by the coast, viewing birds and enjoying the landscapes. Trékyllisvík has a peculiar history, having been the site of a witch hunt in Iceland during the 17th century. It is also a place that has often seen polar bears throughout its history, and seven in a group at one time in winter in the 17th century. When you drive the short distance to Norðurfjörður, you pass a slope at the foot of a mountain, by Urðir. It is a steep, dangerous hill, where falling rocks tended to kill travelers until some centuries ago. The "accidents" are said to have stopped after a bishop, Guðumundur the good, blessed the slope. Apparently, the sanctification is still active, as no one has been injured or lost their lives since the blessing. Norðurfjörður is a short distance away. When you arrive at Norðurfjörður, you should take the time to relax in the fantastic small, geothermal Krossneslaug pool. If you have an excellent 4X4 vehicle, a tour to the next fjord of Norðurfjörður, Ingólfsfjörður, is also a good option for a panoramic view and another reminder of shattered entrepreneurial dreams. You can even visit Ófeigsfjörður fjord and Hvalá river with its beautiful waterfall, Hvalárfossar. Unfortunately, the waterfall will disappear into a reservoir if the plan for a tiny hydroelectric dam goes through. For this extension of the Strandir tour, you need hiking information and a good GPS. The old factory in Ingólfsfjörður As I have pointed out at the beginning of this article, when you leave Norðurfjörður, you need to take the same road back. This can possibly be more interesting than driving to Norðurfjörður along a different route, and different weather can make a big difference. It all boils down to the mood of nature in these mountains. This is a very deceptive and complex landscape. If you have not visited the rest of the West Fjords, you should consider the West Fjords drive and road trip, either before this adventure or after. Norðurfjörður hamlet in Strandir West Fjords Strandir drive tour on map of Iceland Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.
- Crowded or even overcrowded tourist places and attractions in Iceland
There are a few places that are crowded Iceland's most popular spots like Gullfoss, Geysir, Almannagjá, Seljalandsfoss, Reynisfjar Black Beach, and Skógafoss waterfall are always crowded. With over 300 hidden gems and natural wonders waiting to be discovered, Iceland offers a chance to explore its beauty in peace and solitude, away from the tourist crowds. Find the places that are not so crowede Imagine having a stunning waterfall or a breathtaking vista all to yourself, surrounded only by the untouched beauty of nature. This is the magic of venturing off the beaten path in Iceland, like the Highland. From hidden hot springs to secluded valleys, the country is brimming with undiscovered treasures waiting to be explored. Whether you're seeking tranquility, inspiration, or simply a moment of serenity, these lesser-known spots provide the perfect escape from the tourist crowds that flock to the more popular attractions. Plan ahead for your visit So, next time you find yourself in Iceland, consider straying from the well-trodden tourist trails and embarking on an adventure to discover the hidden wonders this enchanting country offers. Who knows, you might just stumble upon your own secret piece of paradise, far away from the crowds and closer to the true essence of Iceland's natural beauty. What does overcrowded or crowded mean exactly? How can you avoid the crowd in popular places in Iceland? In iconic locations like Gullfoss, Geysir, and Almannagjá, the presence of a large number of visitors simultaneously does not hinder your ability to fully appreciate and marvel at the natural wonders, landscapes, or breathtaking views. These destinations are well-equipped to accommodate hundreds of visitors at once, ensuring everyone can enjoy their visit to the fullest. The challenges lie more in practical aspects such as heavy traffic on the roads, limited parking space upon arrival, and insufficient restroom facilities. At Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, issues primarily revolve around the condition of the paths, particularly in wet or icy conditions during winter. The pathways near the waterfalls are susceptible to damage from rain and harsh weather, posing potential hazards to visitors. Furthermore, navigating these paths can be treacherous in sub-zero temperatures. These infrastructural challenges stem from the unprecedented growth in tourism, surpassing the authorities' initial projections. Resolving these issues will require time and concerted efforts. Fortunately, many other destinations across the country do not face the same overcrowding concerns, although improvements in overall services, sanitation, and parking facilities could enhance the visitor experience. Therefore, while a crowded location may lead to some inconvenience, it does not diminish the beauty of the natural wonders. Nonetheless, there are alternatives available for those seeking solitude or wishing to avoid the crowds. Overcrowded Gullfoss waterfall Gullfoss waterfall is truly magnificent when viewed from various viewpoints along the west bank. The most exceptional perspective to fully appreciate the beauty of Gullfoss is from the banks near the upper parking lot and along the walking path from the service center, which is why almost all visitors choose this vantage point. It was Sigfús Eymundsson who, with confidence and foresight, captured the grandeur of Gullfoss in the late 19th century. His choice of angle from the upper bank on the west side remains the quintessential view to behold, a timeless perspective that has only been altered by the passage of traffic. Notably, Mr. Eymundsson was commissioned by the Tourist Board of Iceland to photograph Gullfoss for an Icelandic tourist attractions brochure back in 1896. While the view from the lower level of the lower parking lot is also breathtaking, descending to the waterfall's base may not provide the optimal experience to appreciate this natural wonder or capture the best photos. Numerous spots along the west bank of Gullfoss offer ample opportunities to both enjoy and photograph the waterfall. For those seeking a more intimate encounter with Gullfoss and wish to avoid crowds, remember that Iceland experiences nearly 24 hours of daylight throughout June. The lighting conditions near the waterfall can be particularly striking at late hours, such as eleven in the evening or four-thirty in the morning. With the extended daylight hours during the summer, finding a quiet moment to visit Gullfoss without the usual crowds is easily achievable. Overcrowded Geysir hot spring area Find a good time to visit Geysir, early morning or during the night The tireless hot spring Strokkur confidently blows boiling water and steam into the air at the Geysir hot spring area without fail every single day, week, and month of the year. It is a truly magnificent sight as it shoots up 20 - 30 meters into the sky every 10 to 20 minutes. A group of one hundred or more visitors can easily witness this awe-inspiring spectacle right in front of the hot spring, providing an exhilarating experience each time. The vast Geysir area has the capacity to welcome hundreds of visitors every hour. If you wish to witness Strokkur up close and personal, even amidst a crowd, simply take a few moments to admire and capture the beauty of the other fascinating geysers, boiling water, and colorful geological formations surrounding you. While there is plenty to explore, the main challenge during peak hours is navigating through traffic and securing a parking spot. Similar to Gullfoss, consider visiting Strokkur and the Geysir area in late May, June, or early July, particularly during the evening or early morning hours when the sun is still shining and visitor numbers are low. You may even find yourself alone with Strokkur, especially if you arrive early at dawn before the bus tours commence. Planning your visit according to the time of day is key, especially during the Icelandic summer when daylight persists for 24 hours. Overcrowded Almannagjá at Þingvellir National Park The Almannagjá and Þingvellir area is a vast expanse that can effortlessly accommodate a large number of visitors every hour, making it a popular destination. The region offers a wealth of attractions and opportunities for exploration, including the majestic Öxarárfoss waterfall, the haunting Drekkingarhylur with its dark historical significance, the iconic Lögberg, and the entire Þingvellir field and lava formations. In case the parking lot at Hakið near the Almannagjá service center is full, alternative parking options are available near the church or at the Þingvellir service center, allowing visitors to easily access Almannagjá on foot. To truly experience the beauty and tranquility of this place without the hustle and bustle of crowds, it is advisable to arrive early in the morning or even during the night or early morning hours in the summer when the sun shines brightly for 24 hours. By avoiding peak bus traffic times, visitors can enjoy a more serene and immersive experience amidst the stunning natural surroundings of Almannagjá and Þingvellir. If the area does become crowded at times, it is typically due to parking constraints or traffic issues rather than any limitations on exploring the fascinating landmarks and features that Þingvellir has to offer. Overcrowded Seljalandsfoss waterfall Seljalandsfoss waterfall is absolutely stunning and an absolute blast to visit. Getting there is a breeze since it's conveniently located right off the Ring Road in Iceland. What sets it apart is the unique experience of walking behind the waterfall, a must-do for many adventurers. Just like other popular attractions in Iceland, Seljalandsfoss has seen a surge in visitors in recent years. Meeting the demand for facilities and parking has been a challenge, including maintaining the path behind the waterfall. During peak times, especially in the rain, the crowds can be overwhelming. Local authorities are working on solutions, so improvements are on the horizon. Despite the crowds, there are still quieter times in the morning and evening to enjoy the waterfall. For the best photos, aim for the afternoon light. If the crowds are too much, a short walk to the nearby Gljúfrabúi waterfall can offer a peaceful alternative until things calm down. Overcrowded Skógafoss waterfall The area around Skógafoss waterfall is often crowded from earlly morning Skógafoss waterfall is easily accessible just like Seljalandsfoss from the Ring Road. It is a simple and beautiful rectangular waterfall. It has been a popular attraction in Iceland, as long as anyone can remember. With increasing tourism, its popularity has also increased and so has traffic near the waterfall. Unfortunately, the necessary facilities are not as good as they should be. Just like Seljalandsfoss, the response has been too slow, when it comes to parking and proper sanitary facilities. The area around the waterfall is quite large and can easily welcome hundreds of people each hour to enjoy the waterfall. Although sometimes during peak hours and peak season the waterfall is a bit overcrowded, it is also a place where the stop is much shorter than at many other crowded attractions. If the traffic is overwhelming, you can take some time and visit the fascinating and popular Skogar Museum and also the beautiful waterfall Kvernufoss, both at walking distance from Skogafoss. You can also visit the waterfall early in the morning or late in the evening. In Iceland there is always the option to visit the waterfall at any hour during summer, when we have daylight for 24 hours. Several other alternatives Jökulsárgljúfur canyon in the Northern Region in Iceland Iceland has hundreds of natural wonders and attractions . Although the above mentioned might be the most popular and extremely beautiful ones, there are many alternative sites. If you are in Reykjavík two of the most obvious options are the Reykjanes Peninsula and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula drives. Both drives are highly interesting road trips with stunning natural wonders to view and experience. To see a great geothermal area and hot springs, the Reykjanes Peninsula drive is a perfect option. In summer, you can visit the waterfalls like Háifoss and Hjálparfoss in the southern region and include Gjáin for a stunning day tour. A visit to Reynisfjara is also an unforgettable experience, not to mention the Jökulsárlón and Fjallsárlón lagoons. If you travel to the north-eastern part of Iceland, you will enter the most beautiful and the most interesting part. Here, you can visit beautiful waterfalls like Dettifoss, Selfoss, and Guðafoss to name a few. Jökulsárgljúfur canyon with all its many natural wonders offers the most interesting landscape in Iceland. Námaskarð and Mývatn are places everyone visiting Iceland should have on their list. To skip the overcrowded places and head to the Westfjords is an option no one should regret and the same goes for the eastern fjords if you should choose the Ring Road option. Both regions have stunning waterfalls, natural wonders, and beautiful landscapes, ideal for long and scenic drives. Both have hundreds of options, where you can find a peaceful place and avoid anything even remotely resembling an overcrowded place. Also, you have the option in all the regions to stay overnight and visit some of the many wonderful small towns and villages around the shoreline. There are many places where you will find a good swimming pool, nice restaurants, good accommodation, and usually interesting local travel options. So, if you want to visit Iceland and avoid crowded areas it is easy to plan your trip to hundreds of peaceful and not so crowded places. Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland. Djúpalónssandur at Snæfellsnes Peninsula Icelalnd
- A tour to Drangey Island with students from the University of Southern Main
Drangey island in Skagafjörður fjord in Iceland Occasionally, I take tours, as a guide, with groups traveling with Geocamp Iceland, an Icelandic company that helps organize tours for schools, educational institutions and teachers around the world that are interested in Iceland. Most of the time the tours are organized with an emphasis on a theme, like geology, history, or even an industry like the fishing industry in Iceland. In June, I guided a wonderful group of fifteen visitors from the Honor students program of the University of Southern Main and four teachers, for ten days. It was pure joy traveling to some of the most interesting places in Iceland, seeing some of the most spectacular museums, visiting interesting companies in the fishing industry, and showing them important places related to our history. The students were all wonderful representatives of their school as well as their country and with their intelligence, politeness, and enthusiasm showed me and all the people they met, why the USA is a great country. Our visit to Grettislaug and Drangey Climbing the 180 meters steep cliff up to the top of Drangey island But, even though the theme and the goal of the tour were education, learning and comparing the fishing industries in Iceland and Main, it was also a visit for fun. Although there are many places to visit in Iceland, to have a good time, Geocamp Iceland and the teachers thought that a bit of a challenge was appropriate for this energetic group. And that is the reason why climbing the steep hills, which are 180 meters high, to the top of the Drangey island rock, in the middle of the beautiful fjord Skagafjörður, was selected. Drangey Island has been a part of Icelandic history since the time of settlement, as it was a sanctuary for the notorious outlaw, Grettir Ásmundarson, in the 10th century. It is a rock that stands in the middle of the ocean with its high cliffs and is only accessible from one place. The boat tour to Drangey The view to the east part of Skagafjörður fjord is spectacular The company Drangeyjaferðir operates tours to Drangey during summer from the Reykir farm, about 40 kilometers north of the Varmahlíð hamlet, on the Ring Road in Iceland. The farm has two of the most famous geothermal pools on the shoreline in Iceland, Grettislaug, and Jarlslaug. As we arrived early, the group took the opportunity to take a dip in the pools. Some of the more eager and energetic students also took a dip in the ocean and took a swim in the small harbor. It was time for excitement and adventure. The boat trip took about half an hour and fortunately the weather was calm, making the cruise to the island enjoyable. The boat was operated by the Earl's son, Viggo. Landing at the tiny dock on the island one has to admire and respect the magnificent rock, the steep cliffs, and the noisy sounds of the hundreds of thousands of birds that live in the cliffs. It is understandable why the outlaw, Grettir, chose this place to hide in more than a thousand years ago. The climb to the top The Drangey tour guide telling Grettir stories Throughout our history in Iceland, Drangey island has always been very difficult to climb. For centuries, it was only for those who knew how to climb steep cliffs. Luckily for the rest of us, this has changed. In recent decades, Jón Eiríksson, the farmer and owner of the Reykir farm has worked hard to make the island accessible to the public. He has devised ways to climb to the top of the island with ropes, handles, and steps, making it possible for almost anyone to climb it. It is a steep path and still a bit difficult for people intimidated by heights. Needless to say, it is not suitable for people with Acrophobia. It is not a dangerous climb but requires full attention. For his lifelong dedication to Drangey island, Jón Eiríksson has earned the nickname “the Earl of Drangey” and has become a living legend. On a good day, like the one we had, you will meet the almost 90-year-old Earl sitting calmly in his little kingdom, following the boat, and viewing his island with sharp attention. The climb is divided into two phases: The first phase is a fairly steep path that pools the ropes up to the middle of the rock and the second one involves holding on tight to the ropes and handles and finally taking the 32 steep steps on the ladder to the top. On the way up, especially during summer, the birdlife is extensive and enjoyable, mainly the puffins. On the top of the rock Drangey Drangey island in Skagafjörður fjord in the North Region in Iceland Luckily when we reached the top of the island, the weather was fantastic and the view was spectacular. Greeted by the earl’s grandson, Helgi Rafn, the group was ready to walk the island and learn the many stories related to this rock in the middle of Skagafjörður fjord. While sitting in front of the home of Grettir, Helgi told stories of the outlaw and the dramatic events that led to his slaying. And he of course quoted the hilarious and embarrassing comment that the enormous and strong Grettir received from a young woman about his intimate parts at Reykir farm, after swimming across the cold ocean from Drangey. All of this was very well documented in the Saga of Grettir, written in the 13th century in Iceland. Helgi Rafn also took us to the edge and told stories about egg collectors and rappelling down the cliffs. At the end of the walk, before climbing down again, the group gathered in the northern part, which is the highest peak of the island with a spectacular panoramic view from all directions. On a good day, like the one we had, the experience is nothing less than spectacular. Sailing back to shore after a time of fun and adventure Climbing down to the boat at Drangey island Of all the adventures and tours to choose from in Iceland, the Drangey tour is one of the more interesting trips. Especially if you add the relaxation in the geothermal pools to the trip, either before or after the climb. For me, it was exceptionally enjoyable as my group was great company–energetic and intelligent young people that make me optimistic about the future. I would like to thank the wonderful people from Main and the amazing family that operate the Drangey tours. Relaxing in the geothermal pool Grettislaug after visiting Drangey island Read this important article about renting a car in Iceland.












