Due to its high latitude and subarctic climate, Iceland is critically positioned at the forefront of the fight against global warming. In recent years, this tiny island nation has become a hub for international research and a whole host of conferences on Arctic policy making and preservation. One of the most prominent transnational gatherings for discussion of Arctic issues is the Arctic Circle Conference, which takes place in Reykjavík once a year. Takeshi Atwater-Kaji—a San Francisco native, who went to school at Columbia University in New York City—works in between Iceland and the U.S. throughout the year to help organize and bring the convention to fruition. His efforts and travels across Iceland over the past couple years have given him a deep appreciation for Arctic issues, Iceland’s unrivalled natural beauty, and the diverse languages of the Arctic’s inhabitants. A Love for Languages An accomplished linguist who studied evolutionary biology at Columbia and speaks Russian, Swedish, and French, Takeshi initially developed an interest in Arctic preservation and languages through his best friend in college. “My best friend was, and still is, working towards her PhD in Geography with a special focus on the Arctic, and the more I read her blog posts, the more I felt a northward linguistic pull in terms of my interests and reading habits,” he explains. This curiosity prompted him to pursue a unique volunteer opportunity with the start-up conference, which eventually led him to relocate to Iceland. “I started volunteering for the Arctic Circle during its first year as the social media kid,” he says. “I was still living in New York at the time, but I guess I was gung-ho enough about my limited volunteer duties that I was offered a more boots-on-the-ground paid role the next year.” He has been doing a variety of programming and event coordination work for the organization ever since. Feeling More at Home The more time Takeshi spends in Iceland, the more opportunities he has had to immerse himself in the nation’s distinct scenery and culture. “My favorite place in Iceland so far is the descent into Þórsmörk from Fimmvörðuháls,” he reports. “I hiked the Fimmvörðuháls trail twice last summer and greatly preferred the northward trek for its views, despite encountering worse weather. I’m a big fan of Avatar (the Nickelodeon cartoon, not the James Cameron movie), and I’d be very surprised if the setting of a particular fight scene in the finale of the third season weren’t based on Morinsheiði plateau.” Fimmvörðuháls is near Eyjafjallajökull, the notorious Icelandic volcano whose giant ash cloud famously disrupted air travel across Europe back in 2010. Takeshi admits that the longer he resides in Reykjavík, the more it starts to feel like home, and the more familiar and endearing Icelandic culture becomes to him. “My general impression is that Icelandic culture is the quirkiest form of Nordic bland reasonability. But coming from a multicultural background, there are no major surprises here; I understand Japanese culture from afar, and Iceland is still undeniably a part of the West, where I feel more at home.” An Ongoing Adventure As his work continues in Iceland, Takeshi would like to study Icelandic more in-depth, and has even considered putting off grad school plans to do so. “I’m in no rush to leave Iceland,” he explains. “I’m hoping (fingers crossed) to start a second B.A. in Icelandic as a Second Language in September, which would at least take two years, likely more since I’ll be working at the same time. The masochistic side of me wants to apply to grad programs in linguistics back home, but I am getting quite good at coming up with excuses to make delays.”When asked what he would say to someone who is on the fence about visiting Iceland, he reports that, aside from the country’s disappointing lack of good Korean food, he would not hesitate to give it a positive recommendation.“I’d happily tell them about what I love and dislike about Iceland, why I personally enjoy living here very much, but I’d stress that there’s nothing that I hate.”

Iceland is a nation that holds a special place in the hearts of many people from many places for many different reasons. Whether it’s the rolling landscapes, the charming countryside, or the vibrant capital city, Iceland’s geography never ceases to captivate and inspire all who visit. Wivian Kristiansen—a school teacher from Norway—first encountered Iceland as a child, not through a vacation, not through friends or family ties, but rather through a little-known children’s story book by an obscure Danish author (Inga Islandsfarer by Estrid Ott). Ever since she read this special book, Wivian resolved to move to Iceland one day so that she could learn the country’s unique language in-depth. In 2013, she temporarily uprooted her life in Norway, enrolled at the University of Iceland, and made her long-held dream a reality. An avid fan of Icelandic culture, music, and city life, Wivian—who is leaving Iceland in May, after residing in Reykjavík for almost three years—has the inside scoop on what to see and what to do, for visitors in search of an authentic Icelandic experience. Discovering Icelandic Wivian, who currently works part-time at an after school program for young kids, can vividly recollect the moment Iceland entered her life and consciousness. “I’ve been obsessed about Iceland since I was very young,” she explains, sitting at a Thai restaurant in downtown Reykjavík. “When I was eight, I ran out of books to read one time when my family went to our cabin, and my grandma said that there were books from the time my mother was young in the attic. I found this book about a young Norwegian girl who was sent to Iceland during World War II because her family was fighting in the resistance. It told the story of her last summer in Iceland, when she worked her way around Iceland with a couple of friends, and describes all the people they met and nature they saw along the way.” For Wivian, this simple story led to a lifelong fascination with Icelanders’ mother tongue, which is often cited as one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn. Wivian reports that mastering Icelandic is, indeed, a daunting challenge, one that is full of both rewards and frustrations. “For me, the frustrating part is the grammar,” she says, with a laugh. “Compared to Icelandic, Norwegian doesn’t have any grammar. I always tell the story that in my next life I’m just going to be born Icelandic, and then learn Norwegian. It will be so much easier!” Waterfalls, Architecture, and Concerts Although she’s a city dweller by nature, Wivian has travelled outside Reykjavík on several occasions to catch a glimpse of Iceland’s many majestic waterfalls. “I have this thing about waterfalls,” she reports. “I have friends who drag me along on day trips, and they always convince me to go by telling me that there’s a waterfall at the end of the trip!” Some of Iceland’s most spectacular waterfalls include Skógarfoss in South Iceland, Dettifoss in Northeast Iceland, and Gullfoss, which many tourists see on the famed Golden Circle tour. However, despite her love for waterfalls, Wivian cites Reykjavík as one of her favorite places in the world and encourages visitors to take a walk around the capital to explore and appreciate its unique architecture. “I enjoy walking around town and looking at all of the wonderful buildings, especially Hallgrímskirkja [the giant church in the center of town], which I like to call ‘my church.’ It has wonderful acoustics, in addition to being a beautiful building, and I’ve been to a lot of concerts there.” An admirer of Iceland’s premiere concert hall, Harpa, Wivian recommends checking out some of the building’s lesser-known, less-advertised musical performances in its smaller venues. “A lot of people think of Harpa as a beautiful building with a main hall, where they have operas and orchestral performances,” she explains. “But there are a lot of smaller concert halls in there, and they have all these secret concerts that they don’t advertise the same way they the shows in the main hall.” She also recommends checking out live music at Kex Hostel, Loft Hostel, Húrra [a local bar] and Café Rosenberg, for those who want to soak in the sounds of authentic Icelandic music in an intimate, cozy, laid-back atmosphere. “On any random Tuesday night you can find a concert somewhere in the city,” she reports. “That’s one of the things that surprised me about moving here and made me very happy!” Going for a Swim One of Wivian’s favorite activities is going for a morning or evening swim in one of Reykjavík’s numerous geothermal pools, which she says is a uniquely Scandinavian experience. “A lot of people are put off by the fact that you have to shower naked with other people before you get into the pool, but what’s so liberating here is that no one actually cares about what anyone else looks like!” she explains to those who might be reluctant to try it out. She continues: “You just have to get used to it. My local pool is like three minutes away from my house, and I go nearly every morning and wait outside with all of the old people who are waiting to get inside. The hot pots are where people meet and discuss current news, whatever is happening in Iceland and the world. It’s funny because all of these people talk and act like they’ve solved all the world’s problems during their morning bath. No matter when I get there I will see the same people at every time every day. It’s a huge part of life here. Icelandic children don’t know life without the pool.” Supporting Local Businesses Wivian has some key pieces of advice for fellow visitors to Iceland, urging them to go out of their way to support Icelandic food chains and businesses. “There are a lot of great places here for dancing,” she explains. “There are a lot of good museums. There are also so many things to see.” The rapidly-encroaching tourism industry has dramatically altered the business landscape in Iceland, so Wivian advises travelers to visit Iceland as soon as they can, before the island nation’s cultural identity grows even more obscured. “Come quick! The explosion in tourism is that the things that made people want to come here in the first place are disappearing because the tourism industry is taking over, and you can see very clearly that Iceland is becoming more and more a target area for international chains…Skip the puffin stores; there are a lot of Icelandic souvenirs, not made in China, that you can take home. Come to Iceland, and support local businesses!”

Located on Bankastræti in downtown Reykjavík—just a few minutes walk from Harpa Concert Hall, Hallgrímskirkja, and Tjörnin (the city pond)—Loft Hostel is a cozy, multi-story hotel complete with a café, bar, and a rooftop terrace that offers stunning views of the city and the northern lights during the winter months. For locals, the hostel is also a popular venue for intimate concerts and poetry readings, as well as small social events that demand a laidback vibe and atmosphere. We found Matthew Morgan, a Londoner who decided to make a stopover trip in Iceland, relaxing in the Loft Hostel café shortly after he competed in a local gingerbread-decorating contest to welcome in the holiday season. Although he arrived in Reykjavík during the heart of winter, Matthew quickly realized that Iceland is a special place that definitely lives up to its hype. A Stormy Arrival Matthew spent most of his first night in Reykjavík shuddered indoors due to an uncharacteristically strong winter storm, but he did not let that deter him from enjoying himself and catching up on some rest and relaxation. “I’m travelling via Iceland to go to Canada, but I decided to take a three-day stopover here,” he explains of his travel itinerary. “I’m travelling for two months, so this is part of a long vacation…I intended yesterday to see the northern lights, but we were told not to leave the building due to the windy weather!” Although the storm put a temporary damper on his plans, Matthew was surprised by one aspect of the weather: “I actually haven’t been that cold since I’ve been here. I’ve dressed for the weather, and I’ve felt perfectly fine.” Matthew intends to hit some of Iceland’s hottest tourist destinations before he departs for Canada, taking in as much as he can of the country’s gorgeous landscape and scenery. Golden Circle tour tomorrow “I’m going on a Golden Circle tour tomorrow, followed by a northern lights excursion, and then I’m going to stop at the Blue Lagoon on the way to the airport,” he explains. “It’s a shame that it’s been so cloudy, but from what I’ve seen so far, the landscape is absolutely beautiful.” Matthew’s travels will take him not only to see the spectacular waterfall Gullfoss but also to experience Þingvellir, Iceland’s glorious national park, where the first meeting of the nation’s parliament, known as the Alþingi, took place over a millennium ago. One of the highpoints of Matthew’s stay has been interacting with the locals while spending time unwinding after his plane flights. When asked about his conversations with Icelanders, he jokingly says, “They’re so rude!” before adding “I would definitely recommend booking a flight to Iceland. So far I’ve really enjoyed my stay. The people are really lovely and unbelievably friendly.” In Search of Vegetarian Cuisine A prolific voice actor, who has done voiceover work for Sky News, BBC, and various other media companies in Britain, Matthew has noticed something quite interesting about Iceland’s hardy cuisine during his stay. “I’m a vegetarian and tried to order a vegetarian hot dog, which exists in a lot of places like the U.S. and Canada, but not here apparently,” he explains. Due to Iceland’s harsh environment and cold climate, meat dishes, mostly fish and lamb, have dominated the Icelandic diet for centuries. However, slowly but surely, vegetarian options are catching on in Reykjavík, with popular restaurants like Gló and Fresco offering a range of vegetable-focused options for vegetarian or health-conscious travelers. All in all, after a night on the town and a relaxing stay at one of Reykjavík’s homeliest hostels, Matthew has high hopes for the rest of his stay in Iceland: “I can see why it’s a popular destination for tourists. It’s a really beautiful country, with lots of interesting and friendly people.”

Once a year at the beginning of November, tourists and Icelanders flood the city of Reykjavík for the five-day music festival Iceland Airwaves. This energetic event not only attracts emerging and well-established bands from across Europe and North America -- it also draws in a diverse, dynamic crowd of music lovers and Iceland enthusiasts from around the world. London resident Amalchi Castillo-Rodriguez and New York resident Paul Sauline—two former neighbors—decided to travel to the festival together this year, looking to soak in the distinctive sounds of what has become Iceland’s most iconic international music event. A Cultural Fascination A long-time appreciation for Iceland’s thriving music scene and a fascination for the island nation’s gorgeous terrain drew these two adventurous friends to Airwaves. “It had always been a dream of mine to come here, and I visited for the first time last year,” Amalchi says about his connections to Iceland. “I was interested in the music coming from Iceland. I had heard about this festival but I missed it the last time I was here, so I decided to come check it out this year.” Amalchi, who is originally from Puerto Rico, and has been living and working in London for the past five months as a technology consultant, didn’t want to make his second journey to Iceland unaccompanied. “Amalchi called me up one day and asked me if I wanted to go,” Paul explains, his hands tucked casually in the pockets of his black trench coat. “I’ve never been to Iceland, and have never left North America before, so I got my passport and decided to join him.” Both men agreed that one of the highlights from the festival was seeing American indie-guitarist J. Tillman, aka Father John Misty, from the Grammy-nominated band Fleet Foxes, perform live. “I also hoped to see Björk in concert and pre-ordered my tickets well in advance to come see her. That was before she cancelled,” Amalchi explains, shrugging his shoulders. “Maybe next time, though.” Journeying Outside Reykjavík Because Amalchi had explored the northern and western parts of Iceland on his previous trip, he and Paul decided to sightsee across Iceland’s glorious south coast this time around, traveling to the glistening Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon before taking a dip in the luxurious Blue Lagoon. Although both trips outside the city were enjoyable, Iceland’s notoriously capricious weather had a few surprises in store for them along the way. “It was pouring down rain, and the weather was the windiest I’ve ever experienced,” Paul, a promotional filmmaker for Broadway productions, recounts of his experience at the Blue Lagoon. “Thankfully the weather was beautiful when we were out hiking.” These ex-neighbors, who lived side-by-side in Brooklyn, New York, for two years, had pleasant interactions with Icelanders throughout their travels and have grown to appreciate the nation’s charm over their week-long stay. “Icelanders are very straightforward people,” Paul explains. “They’re very proud of their country, so they like to talk about it, which means you’re always free to ask questions.” Amalchi admires how warm and welcoming Icelanders can be toward tourists: “My experience on the road is that they’re very trusting as well. When we were out traveling, a lot of the time the hostels were closed, and they would literally just give us the key, let us stay over, and then tell us to leave it there the next day. I think it’s really different back home in America; there’s not that level of trust.” Paul was surprised to see how lax and easy-going Icelanders are when parenting their children. “During our stay, one of thing that has really shocked me is that they leave baby strollers outside of cafés, stores, and restaurants with babies still in them,” he says, with a laugh, remarking that such a thing would also likely never occur in the States. Positive Reviews After hopping from venue to venue, and traveling from destination to destination, Amalchi and Paul do not hesitate to recommend the music festival to prospective attendees. “What’s there to be on the fence about? It’s a great line-up and a cool country,” Paul says to anyone pondering a future trip to Airwaves. Amalchi agrees with his friend, recalling the time when he first encountered Iceland and its unique musical culture several years ago. “I used to go to boarding school, and had this bad habit of going into CD stores and picking out music based on the album covers,” he says. “I remember finding this cover with a baby alien on it with lyrics that I didn’t understand. It was the second album from Sigur Rós, Ágætis Byrjun. I was so blown away by it and wanted to know more about the country where it came from.” He recommends not only coming to Reykjavík to attend Airwaves but also extending one’s stay to experience the country more in-depth. “I would say if you have a chance to make your trip not just about the festival but also about exploring Iceland, that’d be great. That way you get the best of both worlds.”

Political upheaval and unrest in Syria has spawned a global refugee crisis and Iceland is doing its part to help. With no end to Syria’s political turmoil in sight, Iceland has recruited aid workers from around the world, who specialize in refugee response, to help them prepare for an increase in new residents. Enter Dr. Nicole Dubus, a professor at San Jose State University in California with over 20 years of experience in social work. Nicole, who has counseled refugees in community and mental health centers in the States, was enlisted as a specialist through the U.S. Fulbright program to advise Icelandic authorities on taking in and welcoming Syrian refugees. This winter, she spent several memorable and meaningful weeks collaborating with Icelanders, assisting them as they bridge the gaps between two distant cultures. A Pleasant Surprise For Nicole, the opportunity to go to Iceland came as a bit of a sudden surprise. “Years ago I had signed up on the Fulbright Specialist list stating my expertise in refugees,” she explains. “I long forgot that I was on the list. I then received a request in November if I could go to Iceland in two weeks to assist with the refugee resettlement process. Of course I jumped at the opportunity.”Though brief, her stay in Iceland proved tremendously eye-opening and rewarding, giving her a chance to learn more about Iceland’s geography and its important position in world affairs. “I found Iceland to be amazing,” she reports. “It was an honor to be part of the efforts to welcome the Syrian families. I was struck by dramatic contrasts of Iceland’s landscape: tectonic plates, volcanoes, geysers.” Nicole was also pleased by the warm welcome she received from Icelanders: “I was struck by the kindness of the residents. I found Iceland to be a country proud of its history, shaped by its place on the globe, and on the cusp of its importance changing on the global stage. As the Arctic Circle becomes more accessible, Iceland’s geo-political position is definitely shifting.” The Inside Scoop Working with Iceland’s immigration authorities also gave Nicole a fascinating glimpse into the inner workings of Icelandic society. She believes that Iceland’s small size makes the country’s agencies more adaptable, efficient, and responsive to the influx of asylum seekers: “While we have done remarkable work in assisting refugees [in the U.S.], we have also often worked in silos, each agency working to address the needs in front of them. This has created a situation where agencies might not be aware of the work other agencies are doing.”Icelandic agencies’ unique collaborative capabilities and adaptability, she believes, gives Iceland the potential to be a world leader in refugee issues. “In Iceland you have the unique opportunity to thoughtfully prepare and develop a network of communication among the service providers,” she explains. “Iceland can be on the forefront of developing best practice for working with refugees.” A Lifelong Fan Nicole’s positive experience collaborating and conferring with her Icelandic colleagues has transformed her into a lifelong fan of the country and everything it has to offer guests and tourists. She was even pleasantly surprised by the mildness of the weather, in comparison to her home state of Massachusetts. “I have lived in the Boston area for most of my life, and didn’t realize that my winters were worse than in Iceland! I have been a loud spokesperson for the wonders of Iceland. I fell in love with the culture, landscape, history of this country [during my stay].”

It doesn’t matter if you are someone who likes to plan vacations meticulously, or someone who likes to travel spontaneously—Iceland is an ideal location for everyone. New York City resident Scott Blair decided to embark on a spur-of-the-moment trip to Iceland with a friend in hopes of seeing otherworldly scenery and exploring spectacular geothermal landscapes—and his trip to the island nation did not disappoint. An attorney who moved to the Big Apple in 2008 to begin law school at New York University, Scott travelled extensively across Southwest Iceland and the Reykjanes peninsula during his six-day stay. The sites he saw and the adventures he experienced made quite an impression on him. A Love for Landscapes “I've thought of going to Iceland for a while, because I've always been impressed by the scenery,” he says. “But I also wanted to see one of the most geologically active areas that I can get to, and thought the hot springs of Iceland would be worth visiting, and they definitely were. It was a bit of an impromptu trip, but my friend and I decided to go and have fun.” Although his vacation was a whirlwind adventure, Scott enjoyed his interactions with the locals, finding them affable and approachable. “I wasn’t surprised at how friendly everyone in Iceland was, but Icelanders seem to be,” he explains. “On several occasions people came up to me to chat, and inevitably they would say ‘of course, most Icelanders don’t just say hello to strangers.’” However, Icelanders’ latest culinary craze, the new Dunkin Donuts on Reykjavík’s main street Laugavegur, was a bit perplexing to him as an American from New York City. “The lines outside were a bit surprising,” he adds with a chuckle. Taking the Roads Less Travelled Scott and his friend determined to make the most of their short visit, covering as much of the island as possible while still purposing to travel to some lesser known destinations. “We mostly did the touristy things, but we also snorkeled in Þingvellir, which was beautiful,” he says while describing the highlights of his journey. “Perhaps the greatest fun we had was driving around Southwest Iceland; I enjoyed stopping at all of the springs and valleys that hadn’t yet made it into tourist books.” One region of Iceland rose above the rest in Scott’s mind, when asked about his favorite landscape and day trip. “It's very hard to choose, but I would say going to the Reykjanes peninsula,” he reports of his travels. “The entire country was beautiful, but Reykjanes was the most alien landscape I saw there, which was a big reason I went to Iceland in the first place.” Like Something Out of a Role-Playing Game Because his first sojourn to Iceland was a success, Scott foresees coming back to visit in the future, but at a different time of year so that he can catch a clearer glimpse of the country’s most magnificent natural phenomenon—the northern lights. “I enjoyed my time in Iceland immensely; if I came back again, it would be for a very different, winter-focused trip because I would still like to see the northern lights,” he says. Inspired the nation’s stark, desolate landscapes—which, he says, remind him of something out of a Dungeons and Dragons game—Scott would also like to participate in the annual Reykjavík Marathon sometime in the future. His recommendation to anyone contemplating a trip to Iceland can be summed up in two simple words: “Do it!”

Every year, countries across Europe hold national pre-selections to determine who will represent them in the Eurovision Song Contest—a spectacular annual music competition, broadcast all across Europe, that is a sort of entertaining blend between The X Factor and the Olympics. Though always optimistic, Iceland has yet to win the competition in its thirty years of participation, although the country boasts two stellar second-place finishes, one in 1998 and the other in 2009. Over the years, Iceland’s pre-selection show, Söngvakeppnin Sjónvarpsins, has accrued a small international cult following, drawing fans and journalists from across Europe to Iceland once a year to interview contestants, socialize, and enjoy the music. Roger Fry, a professional translator and news editor from the UK, who currently resides in Norway, has attended the Söngvakeppnin final for the past few years. During every visit, he purposes to catch up with old friends, see something new, and cheer on his favorite contestants, in what has become one of his most beloved travel traditions. Catching Up with Friends For Roger, venturing to Iceland is always a great way to take a break from the hustle and bustle of life in Norway. “[This is] my fourth time attending the Söngvakeppnin final, so that seems to have become a habit hard to break,” he explains of his most recent trip. “It’s always such a fun event, gathering whole families and groups of friends. For me it’s certainly more about the atmosphere and meeting up with friends than the music, although there’s always a couple of songs I really love. It’s just a shame there isn’t more ‘regular’ Icelandic music there. That would be fantastic!” Past Eurovision entries from Iceland have ranged from catchy pop songs to powerful, melodious ballads, and the competition frequently attracts repeat contestants, as it did this year. In 2016, Iceland will be represented by Gréta Salóme Stefánsdóttir—who also performed for Iceland back in 2012—with the song “Hear Them Calling.ˮ When asked about Iceland’s chances of winning this time around, Roger, who often attends Eurovision in May, offered his initial reaction: “I am quite useless at predicting Eurovision results, but I have my doubts…The song itself is nice enough, but maybe lacking the X factor. I’m not sure if it will have a huge appeal outside the Nordics. Now, watch it win!” Both Foreign and Familiar While some people come to Iceland to explore its majestic landscapes, Roger prefers sticking close to the city, partaking in Reykjavík nightlife. “I'm almost ashamed to say that I have only ever spent time in Reykjavik,” he explains. “My excuse is that I don’t want to see everything ‘this time’ so that I have something to come back for. But I’ve said that a few times now…I’m generally a bad tourist wherever I go, avoiding anything resembling a tourist attraction and focusing on discovering the best cafés and restaurants and people watching. Having said that, I think my favorite thing in Iceland is the sky. There always seems to be so much of it sweeping majestically above me.” To Roger, Iceland is a land both foreign and familiar. Every time he visits, he feels strangely at home due to the island nation’s strong Scandinavian roots. “Maybe it’s the Nordic link and familiarity, but I don’t think I’ve been surprised at all [by Icelandic culture],” he reports. “I must have known what to expect: friendly, quiet, unassuming Nordic-ness! You know, things work out, and even in the midst of a blizzard people just get on with things. No fuss. I think that’s what I most like about the Nordics: there’s not much time for melodrama!” The one thing he reports initially caught him slightly off guard is the intensity of the Icelandic party scene. “Maybe the only slight surprise is just how full the pubs and clubs still are at 3am, 4am, 5am…but Reykjavík has the party reputation, so that’s not really a surprise either!” A frequent visitor to Iceland who is well-acquainted with everything Reykjavík has to offer, Roger has a simple piece of advice for those pondering a potential trip to Iceland: “Book your flight today!”

A country rife with enchanting landscapes and breathtaking natural wonders, Iceland is not only an outdoorsman’s paradise but also a place where cutting edge scientific research of all kinds takes place. For example, the nation’s small, insular population has made Iceland a top destination for cancer researchers and geneticists fascinated by the purity of Icelanders’ ancestry, with companies like deCODE Genetics leading the way in unlocking the mysteries of the human genome. Sarah Lucht, a Minnesota native and graduate student at Harvard’s School of Public Health, decided to focus her master’s thesis research on a unique genetic mutation among Icelandic women that increases the risk for ovarian and breast cancer. Her curiosity for cancer genetics led her to apply for a residency in Iceland back in 2013, and ever since, she has developed a strong relationship with the country, returning in January 2016 to further her research endeavors and re-discover the country’s haunting, awe-inspiring beauty. Seeing the Sites and Catching Up with Old Friends For Sarah, coming back to Iceland this winter presented a great opportunity to reconnect with the friends and research contacts she made during her residency several years ago. “I was lucky to get to spend a year in Iceland getting to know Icelanders and Icelandic culture,” she explains. “I’ve made many wonderful friends and grew to appreciate so many of the things that make Iceland distinctive. My Icelandic friends and collaborators are some of the most warm-hearted and generous people I know—I am so grateful to have them in my life.” While most of this most recent visit to Iceland was devoted to her project, Sarah managed to sneak outside the city on several occasions to catch a glimpse of sites she didn’t see during her first visit. “I got the opportunity to go to Skaftafell, where I was able to hike on the glacier,” she reports. “It was an amazing experience and my tour group was blessed with the most wonderful of weather. I’ll never forget the beauty of the glacier, the mountains, and the ocean all at once.” Skaftafell, a stunning mountainous region located in Southeast Iceland, used to be a manor farm in ancient times before it was eventually deemed a preservation area and made part of Vatnajökull National Park in 2008. It is a fantastic place to hike, explore, and reconnect with the natural world. Reviving Old Traditions Sarah’s winter visit also gave her a chance to become reacquainted with some of her favorite aspects of Icelandic culture. “I am always surprised by how well so many old traditions are woven into modern life here,” she explains. “Icelanders are wonderful at taking aspects of things from the past, making them new, and building them into new traditions.” During her stay, she purposed to stock up on her favorite Icelandic delicacy, the crispy chocolate candy Nóa Kropp. “I am absolutely addicted to the Icelandic candy Nóa Kropp,” she says, laughing. “I ate six family-size bags in just a few weeks!” A popular bite-sized candy, and the perfect snack food, Nóa Kropp is a chocolate treat native to Iceland that comes in a variety of flavors, including original, mint chocolate, and caramel. Although it’s traditionally one of the slower periods of the Icelandic tourism season, Sarah also recommends that travelers take the time to visit Iceland during the holidays, despite the lack of sunlight. In Iceland, Christmas, or jól, is a jolly three-day event of gift-giving, feasting, and drinking, while the countryʼs New Year’s Eve celebration is like no other, spectacular fireworks lighting up every corner of the capital city and countryside. A Place Like No Other For Sarah, Iceland will always occupy a special place in her heart, and she firmly believes that others should take the time to venture there and experience everything the island nation has to offer. “Go. Iceland is a place of such beauty and strangeness,” she describes. “The landscape is like no other and you will find the cities and towns so enchanting. Rent a car, drive around, stop frequently, and you will never regret it.”

During the dark winter months, travelers from every corner of the world fly to Iceland in hopes of catching a glimpse of the spectacular northern lights. This natural phenomenon—which is created by solar winds disturbing the earth’s magnetosphere—faithfully lights up the Icelandic sky in undulating shades of green and red every year, creating an awe-inspiring display of natural beauty that is as memorable as it is breathtaking. Real estate attorney and university advisor Ana Droscoski ventured all the way from Baltimore, Maryland, with a friend to witness the lights firsthand. A day after her arrival, she and her travel companion were welcomed by the winter’s first heavy snowfall. Determined and prepared, Ana wisely planned a lengthier ten-day trip, giving herself ample time and opportunity to view one of the world’s most captivating natural wonders. A Long-Awaited Vacation “I’ve wanted to come to Iceland for a while now, and timing-wise, the northern lights took priority,” Ana says about her decision to travel to Iceland in the wintertime, the best time to see the Aurora Borealis. When a major international airline started offering direct flights from Baltimore to Reykjavík earlier this year, she knew she had to book the trip. “The flight over here was very pleasant,” she explains, in spite of her lingering jet-lag. “It was a direct flight from Baltimore to Iceland, which is about the same distance as flying cross-country from Baltimore to Los Angeles, so it wasn’t that bad.” Although she and her friend had just flown in the previous day, Ana quickly noticed the similarities between Iceland and another Nordic country where she had recently vacationed. “My first impression of Reykjavík is that it’s very similar to Copenhagen,” she explains, looking around. “Everything, including the architecture, is very Scandinavian in appearance.” Despite landing in Iceland shortly after what locals have labelled “Snowmaggedon”—the heaviest snowfall in Reykjavík since the 1970s—this nine-year Baltimore resident remained relatively unfazed by the nation’s unpredictable weather. “There’s definitely a lot of snow on the ground,” she says with a laugh. “We heard it was a record-setting year. But it’s definitely not as cold as I thought it would be.” A Passion for Travelling Outside of her career in law and higher education, Ana’s greatest pastime is world travel, and her journey to Iceland represents just one stop on her extensive list of travels. “Traveling is my favorite hobby, and one of my favorite destinations was Turkey,” she describes, when asked about some of her most memorable vacation spots. “Everything there was amazing—the country, the landscape, the history.” She expresses equally high hopes for her experiences in Iceland. Once the weather and snow clear up, she and her friend intend to simmer in the Blue Lagoon and take a bus tour across South Iceland, in addition to their northern lights excursions. “Everything is very positive so far,” she explains, sizing up her time in Iceland. “I have seen the northern lights twice; on the Northern Light Tour outside Reykjavík and then again in Reykjavík despite the light pollution. It was great!”

Iceland, with its close proximity to the U.S., Canada, and mainland Europe, is an ideal location for travelers of all types—from experienced globe-trotters to first-time international tourists. The nature is inspiring, the people hospitable, the city entertaining, and the culture a distinct and diverse conglomeration of Scandinavian, European, and North American influences. Pablo Juarez, a native of Ottawa, Canada, returned to Reykjavík for a second time this winter, after a memorable journey to Iceland last year. An explorer who has spent the last fifteen months sightseeing and working across the globe, Pablo has found both of his trips to Iceland incredibly worthwhile and the sites he’s seen here like nowhere else in the world. Journey to the North On his first trip to Iceland, Pablo endeavored to balance his time between city life and seeing as much of the countryside as possible. “I’ve actually been traveling for fifteen months, did a working holiday in Australia, and have just been checking out cool places all over the world,” he says of his extensive travels. “I’m only here for a few nights this time around. When I was here last March, I took the Golden Circle tour, explored a little bit of the South Coast, drove up to Akureyri [often referred to as the northern capital of Iceland] and saw some of the sites up by Lake Mývatn as well.” Lake Mývatn is a biologically-productive, geothermal lake near the volcano Krafta that is surrounded by otherworldly, photogenic wetlands—a must-see location for lovers of unique and mysterious natural beauty. “Lake Mývatn, and the region around it, is amazing. It’s like the land of nowhere,” he recalls. He also recommends renting a car and driving up north to Akureyri, less for partying more for sightseeing: “The city a bit smaller than Reykjavík, so obviously the night life isn’t as notable, but the landscape around it is just unbelievable.” Top on his list of all the sites he’s seen in Iceland is the impressive waterfall Skógafoss, one of the country’s largest waterfalls, with a width of 82 feet (25m) and a height of 200 feet (60m). “It’s a beautiful location, where you can see and take pictures of double rainbows (on sunny days),” he says, smiling. The magnificent waterfall, which is located along Iceland’s South Coast, has made cameos in numerous films and music videos, most recently in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, as well as a Justin Bieber’s video for “I’ll Show You.” Pablo intends to stay close to the capital this time round to get to know the locals and the culture better. “I’ve done a glacier trek and other touristy things as well, but on this trip, I’ll be spending most of my time hanging back in Reykjavík because it’s such a cool city,” he explains, reclining in his chair at a table in Loft Hostel. “The locals are really friendly and everyone seems to speak English really well,” he reports. “Like in a lot of Scandinavian countries, the people here are really warm, and I’ve always felt really comfortable and welcomed here in Reykjavík.” Boundless Nature Although his current stay in Reykjavík will be brief, Iceland nevertheless stands out as one of Pablo’s favorite vacation spots. A traveler who once found incidental global fame after tennis star Eugenie Bouchard took a widely-shared and broadcasted selfie with him, he urges others to put Iceland at the top of their lists of places to see: “Whether it’s winter or summer, come check it out. The landscape is something you’ll never find anywhere else, with its hot springs, its waterfalls, its mountains—it’s just boundless. Come enjoy the culture in between taking your excursions. It’s an amazing place.”

A unique capital city that is both lively and laidback, Reykjavík is home to some of Iceland’s most spectacular tourist destinations, including Harpa—a prismatic concert hall located near the city’s stunning harbor. The structure, which was designed by Danish design company Hanning Larsen Architects in cooperation with renowned Icelandic-Danish designer Ólafur Elíasson, strongly resembles Iceland’s basalt rock formations, and has dazzled visitors and locals alike since it first opened in 2011. While wandering through the building’s spacious foyer, we met American couple Cory Padin and Britaney Acome-Campbell, who decided to take a stopover in Reykjavík on their way to Paris and London. Despite having been in Iceland for just twelve hours, it didn’t take long for this jetlagged couple to realize that the small island nation is a charming and striking place that lives up to its growing international hype. Following a Passion for American Football For Cory and Britaney, residents of Arlington, Virginia, Iceland represents the first stop on an exciting European vacation that will culminate in attending an NFL (National Football League) away game in London. “We haven’t taken a vacation yet this year, and we were thinking how could we make the trip really fun and have different legs involved with it,” says Cory, an employee at a design management firm who plays guitar for the Latin/folk fusion band La Unica in his free time. Positive feedback and recommendations from friends ultimately convinced the couple to look into visiting Iceland. “We kept hearing a lot about Iceland—they promote it a lot in the Washington D.C. area…Some of our friends went and then we found some really affordable flights here…We definitely thought this was going to be an amazing place. We like doing outdoorsy stuff, as well as learning about new places and new cultures.” Britaney recently completed her second degree in Health Science and Human Performance and plans on becoming a physical therapist. She most looks forward to exploring Iceland’s otherworldly nature and relaxing in some of the nation’s soothing geothermal pools. “We definitely want to go to the Blue Lagoon…our plan is to rent a car for a couple of days and take the Golden Circle Tour ourselves,” she says. “We don’t mind guided tours, or things like that, but we also like to venture out and do things on our own, to see some waterfalls—awesome stuff like that.” Cory, who shares Britaney’s passion for independent exploration, smiles and nods in agreement. Cold Country, Warm Welcome Opting to rent a room from a local instead of booking a hotel, Cory and Britaney received a generous welcome from their Icelandic host, who insisted on picking them up by car at the BSÍ bus terminal instead of making them walk to their destination. “The people here have been really friendly so far,” Cory explains. “Our host is amazing and was telling us about the legendary troll Grýla and her thirteen children—the Christmas Yule Lads—as well as other Icelandic traditions. It was great.” After taking a short nap to recover from jetlag, Cory and Britaney hit the ground running and started exploring the city, wanting to make the most of the four days they’re spending in Iceland. “I like that the city is really quaint, and you’re able to get to things pretty quickly,” Britaney says. “Everything’s so accessible; there are a lot of different shops in the area. The place where we’re staying is fairly close to the water, so we can walk along the ocean and see things that we normally would not have seen.” Worth a Return Visit “Don’t let the cold scare you away.” That’s Cory’s advice to anyone who might be indecisively considering a trip to Iceland. Although both Cory and Britaney are natives of Buffalo, New York—a city known for its brutal winters—the couple believes that the cold and cloudy weather is no reason to miss out on Reykjavík and the vibrant adventures that await travelers here. “When are you going to have a chance to come again?” Britney asks, smiling. She thinks that Iceland, though off the beaten track, is a friendly place for even the most reluctant tourists to visit. “I will definitely recommend the city to other people,” Cory confirms. “Everything has been spot on with descriptions about how beautiful it is.” The couple has already been thinking about how they will return to Iceland in the coming months: “Now that it’s a bit more affordable flying from Baltimore, we’d like to come back this summer when the days are longer. I definitely think we’ll return soon.”